OK, well my SPAL window kit just came in the mail..... and my first impression isnt too great.... The brackets that are supposed to hold the motor in place do not screw in tight enough to the motor itself and i had to do some serious fabricating to finally managed to put my own bolts in it. So after 2 hours ive only managed to get one motor in before it got dark. My question is for the wiring, I didnt have much time to look at it tonight but could you give me some direction to i have an idea what to expect tommorow?

 

Not that ChrisAdams won't drop by soon, but you might try emailing him if you're in a hurry. Good luck!

https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=5540

 

KaNigIt Sorry to hear about the problem, I used the Colibri's as you know, and I have a set of SPAL's that I just sold this morning. They looked like they would be rather easy to install, but they are the older style, with the motor pointing towords the small end, not the ones with the motor sticking out at right angle.

What kind of problem are you having with wireing? You did get the wiring kit, right?
Chris

oops, edited because I forgot to say HI to GordoPanocho.
HI!
Chris

 

Yeah i got a kit with 3 switches. I want to put two switches on my door and one on the other. From the little time i had to look at it it seemed like theres were two harnesses on one end then it split into a set of a brown and red wire and another set of a green, black, and red wire. Why Im so confused it why theres not a 3rd switch harness and how the 2 at the end are supposed to work. Im sorry if this is confusing.


Heres the auction - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7965224162

 

I am a tad confused... there should be four 'motor wire' connectors. two at each end.
then you have three five wire switches. The drivers side is straight forward. Put power in, and ground, then two wires go to the motor.

So forget that one.

The passenger side is the complicated one, I guess. There are two ways they can do it. One is to run a harness from the driver side passenger switch (got that? the second switch on the drivers side...) to the passenger side passenger door switch. It would use the same two wires to the motor. So your harness should have a 'short' run for the drives side, power in, ground in, and two wires out. The switch that sits next to it should have a five wire run that goes over to the other switch.

Of course there are other ways to do this. Don't suppose they gave you a manual? with the harness layed out? I had a spal manual till about three hours ago, now it's hedded to Texas...
And I didn't think to photocopy it.
I will take a look and see if I can find a better diagram either on the net or in one of my shop manuals.
Chris

 

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/power-window2.htm
is an easy to follow diagram of how the power goes through the drivers side switch (not the drivers window) to the passenger side switch.
Note that this means that there would be three wires going to the passenger side from the drives side.

So you would have to run Power into the drivers door, also a good ground. grounding inside the door ain't a good idea. Then three Back out of the drivers side door, accross under the dash, and into the passenger door.

Two big gound and hot wires into door, three somewhat smaller wires out of door to other door, into other door. That would mean three wires go into the passenger door.

I suspect your harness is fine, you might want to 'pre-assemble it on the floor first, and lay it out to get a feel for how it runs.

So when your passenger presses his down switch, power comes from the battery, into the drivers door, then back out of the drivers door and into the passenger door.
So when you press down from the drivers position, using the drivers passenger control switch, power comes from the battery, into the driver door, and out of the driver door, across the cab, into the passenger door.

Or why it was so much less work to put my switches in the middle.

With out a wire count on each wire harness, that's as bought as far as I can go.
Chris

 

OK Im half way done! As of now Im completely done with the drivers side and the wires are ready to go for the passeneger side. The instruction manual had a diagram for a 6 wire configurationa when i only had five but that link you gave me cleared it up! THANKS! Me and a friend started working after school and ran into more problems than Id ever imagine. First it took forever to get the brackets one the transmission because it had the same problem as the motor. We managed to get that done and the wiring for that door. I tested it and was glad to see it worked. I decided to put the switches below the door handle.... it dremeled the hole and everything was going good untill we tried to put the panel back on and realized the back of the switches just barely hit the door the only solution was to cut a chunk out with the cut off wheel. After a few attempt we got that figured out and realized in the mess we must have grounded one of the wires or something because the fuse was blow.... As if that wasnt enough when i was kinda cleaning up so I could run to orielly auto parts and get another I had the key still in the ignition and the 12V ignition wire where the fuse had been dangled over and grounded itself against the metal plate under the steering wheel..... now the ignition fuse was blown and of course nothing worked so we rushed over to the store in my friends car before they closed and managed to get the new fuses.By then we were running out of light and just put everything back together and decided to put the other in tommorow but for right now the drivers side works pretty well and I think it looks and and is functionaly where I put the switches.

 

Um, I remember about a million unscheduled parts runs before the store closes…

Glad it’s working out, I want more details on why the motor was a problem. The Colibri fit in like it was made for the truck. A picture is worth about a million words here, if any chance I would sure appreciate it.

Remember the most important rule of scheduling a job

“Everything takes longer, and costs more”

I’ve been saying that for 30 years, and a few years ago a guy won the Noble peace prize for economics for proving it mathematically. I ain’t kiddin.
Chris

 

LOL, thats interesting. The only problem was that the screws that came in the kit were too small for the bracket to firmly hold into the motor. I just drilled bigger holes into both the bracket and the motot and put used my own small bolt to hold them together, I like bolts better than screws anyways.

Ill hopefully remember to get some pics when I install it on the other door and some of where I mounted the switches.