Ok, I started this thread and it went somewhere it was not intended to go.
FATHERFORD- Keep on racing and keep on beating those other trucks! If you don't want to post your times fine, if you do thats fine also. I just didn't understand why but now I do. I used to street race and I found it to be a lot of fun and very rewarding (if I won). I guess I just grew out of it and now when I want to race its to the track I go. Ok, so once in a while I mess around in my Stang on the street.

Anyhoo, back to the Roush truck. Why is this thing so slow with 405HP? Its barely faster than a stock Titan or Hemi! I have messed around with a Hemi on the street and we were pretty even. My only performance mod is a Superchips 1714 (for now at least)!

 

I could care less if you or anyone else fills in their profile. My point is that you claimed you would not post your ET's on this sight as someone you may end up racing could read your posts and see what ET's your truck will turn. Well if there is no information in your profile on who you really are, how would a potential street racer get any information on you or your truck. Unless of course you had "FATHERFORD" painted on the side of your "race" truck..
Give me a break, you are full of BBBBSSSSS..... :

 

your all a bunch of old women

 

I am at FATHERFORDS rear bumper right now...pending he doesnt hit the NOS button.

 

I aint' skeered

 

Yeah, I know.

BTW, I'll post my times all over the place. I am keepingthem up to date with each new mod.

hopefully I will have some better time this weekend since I added new wheels and tires.

 

Depending on the shot of nitrous, FATHERFORD is in the mid to high 14’s. He has a big heavy truck and its going to take a boat load of goodies along with nitrous to even think about getting into the low 14’s let alone high 13’s and that is the main reason Ford did not come out with the 500hp Gen III Lightning because even with a blower and 500hp it couldn’t get into the high 13’s…

 

Actually you are wrong. I am ALL MOTOR (NO NOS) and I am in the high 14's with FAR LESS mods than Fatherford.

I only have an intake, exhaust and tuner with 3.73 gears and I am running mid 9's in the 1/8th which is a high 14 run.

9.53@73.04mph to be exact and that equates to a 14.95 run in the 1/8th. This run was with my old wheels/tires. I now have dropped to a 28.5" diameter and 60 lbs less overall weight. I spun on that run too.

Anyway, Fatherford has 4.10 gears, underdrive pulleys and electric fans, and a dyno tune on top of the mods I have.

I have none of that. I know his times without NOS. He has asked me not to say so I wont.

I have slips and video as well. I will see high 13's without NOS, or a Supercharger. Just a bolt on 5.4L....

 

The new 04’s are approx. 5300 lbs curb weight correct? If so, add driver, full tank of fuel ect. and now your around 5600 lbs, correct?

Let’s take 5500 lbs race weight, to see high 13’s, like 13.9 you are going to need approx. 400rwhp. Now, assuming there is 15% drive train loss you’re going to need approx. 470 hp at the crank.

You’re not going to do that with simple bolt on, unless you consider NOS and/or a blower a simple bolt on…

 

My RC SB truck weighs 4760lbs without me in it and a 1/4 tank of gas with two cameras inside of it (just 10 more pounds) LOL!!! I can take pics of the weight slip too. My race weight comes in at about 5010lbs WITH me in it.

A Supercab 5.4L weighs 5244lbs according to Ford.

You also need to figure in TQ, gear ratios, weight displacement.

I dyno'd 262HP and 300TQ at the wheels in 85 degree weather and 100% humidity.

I ran a 9.53@73.04 mph with my spare and tailgate removed, with a CAI, exhaust and Superchips installed with my old wheels and tires.

My new runs will be with as follows:

Going from a 30" tire to a 28.5" tire
Dropping 60 lbs in wheel weight.
Adding pulleys, 9300 custom tuner from Troyer Performance, electric fans, 4.10 gears and removing swaybar.

Yeah, I think I will drop quite a bit with that combo. I see 8's in the 1/8th all motor. high 8's normally yield high 13's in the 1/4.

BTW, I will be heading to a 1/4 track this Spring to get some 1320ft times finally.

 

It might be possible. Now, wouldn’t high gears such as the 4.10 hurt to a point? I know gearing is important in racing, specifically drag racing, but curious as to when gearing is too high. The higher the gear the less the top speed will be which may not be important for your truck.

In other words at how high a gear in your truck before you level out, top out, “before” the 1320? That would go for tire height as well. I don’t know the answer but was curious if you might know.

I am still thinking you would need at least 350rwhp though, but as you say and I do agree, gearing, which includes tire size, has a lot to do with it as well…

 

With those gears and tire height I will top out in 3rd gear at about 110-115mph. That is a 12 second run in the 1/4 on average. Not happening unless I get a 150 shot of NOS or something. LOL!!!

So, for top speed reasons it isnt a problem. The only problem you may encounter with gears is getting the engines sweet spot in the power band curves (HP and TQ respectively).

With a tuner you are golden. If you set your shift points at 5400 rpm (peak HP on the 5.4L's), then no matter what gear ratio you have you will still shift at the peak HP RPM...just alot faster rap out time.

Then there are tractions issues and so on that ensue as a result.

The only thing I have decided to question is the 4.10 gears because this diameter drop and wheel weight drop made such a difference, I am not sure I need them now. So, all is good as of now.

I also have one more thing I want to try, but havent decided yet, nor do I think I wanna post it. But, it has to do with the exhaust. I dont want to encourage others to trial and error their vehicles like I am. LOL!!!

 

Not to jack the thread at all as I've been following this...

How much does it cost to change out to 4.10s?

 

Roughly 500.00 with gears and installation kit...that is installed by a business.

300.00 if YOU do it.