Hi all is the fan assembly bolt standard or reverse threaded. If I recall the fan turns CCW which would make me think it would be reverse threaded.
I may be off on my removal technique but it looks like I just need to hold the pully stationary and turn the big hex section that comes out the front of the pully. Is this correct?

Thanks

 

I was looking through the Workshop Manual and for removing the fan and fanclutch assembly the factory has two special tools. One is a special fan pully holder and the other is the Fan Clutch Nut wrench. So I believe your correct in that you hold the pully and turn the fanclutch assembly. Which way to turn is your guess as that is not mentioned but bet you right on that one.

When you get this done let us all know which way it came off...

I knew I blew all the $$$ on the manuals for something....

 

I figured it out I used a large pair of channel lock pliers to hold the water pulley mounting bolts and then a large crecent wrench to loosen the fan assy. All worked great the threads are standard (lefty loosey righty tighty).

 

Glad it worked out ok. ......

What was your reason for removing the fan in the first place?

 

Put on a Flex a lite 270 E-fan setup today. I have to finish wiring in the morning so far all has been well. About as painless an install as I could hope for. All I need to do is find a good tap for ignition power and teh ac clutch power and I will be done. Man I could have used a extra hour or two of daylight today.

 

youll love the efans man. ive had them for a few months now and theyre awesome.

 

Waiting to get my e-fans from Troyer. They should be ready to go very soon.

 

Exactly how I did it, except I used a pipe wrench.

 

Yeah reading your post gave me the idea. I just wasn't sure originally which way to turn the nut. All in all since your write up was so thourough I figured you would have thrown it in if it was reverse threaded.
Ahh the search function and a little intuition come in handy once again.

 

Just to let you know Autozone stores have a fan wrench set you can use. I just made a deposit on the wrench set while I used them and they return my deposit when I returned the wrench set.

I've had the efans for a few months and love them. I wouldn't use flex a lites instructions on setting the fan on/off. If you do what they say do the fans will ran more than they need too and your thermostat will be cycling open/close.

I set mine to come on at 210 degs F using a temp gauge at the radiator inlet. Thisway I know my thermostat is full open and remains that way.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by mrjamjam
[B]Just to let you know Autozone stores have a fan wrench set you can use. I just made a deposit on the wrench set while I used them and they return my deposit when I returned the wrench set.

I've had the efans for a few months and love them. I wouldn't use flex a lites instructions on setting the fan on/off. If you do what they say do the fans will ran more than they need too and your thermostat will be cycling open/close.

I set mine to come on at 210 degs F using a temp gauge at the radiator inlet. Thisway I know my thermostat is full open and remains that way.


mrjamjam

Do you have the same Variable Speed Control that turns the fans on at 60% at the ON setpoint then powers the fans to full speed if there is a 10degree rise in radiator skin temp?

I set mine to come on by monitoring water temp with a scangauge. I got readings from 191-193*F with the stock fan at normal operating temp. I then set the VSC to come on at 192*F so the fans come on 60% power and then if the water temp creeps up so will the fan speed until 202*F when the fans will be full on.

So far the scangauge reading has not rose above 193*F however the ambient temp here has been cooler in the mid 50's. I want to be sure the engine gets enough cooling when the weather is warmer 95-100+ in the summertime and I am towing my bike trailer.

I figure since there is much more forced air cooling through the radiator at freeway speeds than the stock or FAL fans could ever provide going off the 191*F normal operating temp that I read on the scangauge with both the stock and FAL fans at freeway speeds my setting the VSC "on" at 192*F will not work the thermostat any more than the stock configuration would. Besides failed thermostats are a lot easier and cheaper to replace compaired to warped heads or a cracked block.

I have not checked the radiator skin temp at the inlet connection with a IR thermometer yet, I will try that to see how that reading compairs to the scangauge reading and post back.

 

Clee454

Your scanguage is looking at the water temp in the block. The stock thermostat is 195 deg. That's the full open temperature setting for the thermostat. It starts to open at 10 to 15 degress below that. So if you're going by the instructions that come with the flex a lite fan, they say to have the fans start when you feel the top hose heat up. This means the fans are coming on at around 180 or less.

With a scangauge I would set mine to come on around 205 to 210. Just to make sure the thermostat stays open. You made my point with the fact that the thermostat is cheap and cheaply made, but if it fails close you'll be overheating and maybe buying new heads. They do make a FAIL open thermostat, but they don't come stock with the truck.

Remember this is a pressurized coolant system. It doesn't boil at 212 degs. like water in a pot. Your truck can be running normal at 220 degs. By design the cylinder wall outer walls should be at 195 to 205 to maintain ring seal between the cylinder and piston.

 

mine are set to come on at 180* and even then only 1 comes on. it cools enough. i HIGHLY recommend a efan controller from member MadFerrarista. he offers a GREAT product and AMAZING costumer service.

 

Why set it so much higher than the scangauge read with the stock fan with the engine and radiator at operating temp? (after 2 hours driving in 70* weather I'm sure both the radiator and block were up to temp. and the scangauge read 191-193 then as well.

Yesterday driving to work after some city stop and go I opened it up on the freeway and the scangauge reading went up to 195*f which is higher than it ever got with the stock fan in, It did quickly drop down to 191-193 range thereafter.

I will probably end up resetting the fans to come on at a little higher temp per the scangauge depending on the readings I get when I do the IR thermometer test.

I am going to borrow the IR thermometer from work this weekend and check the skin temp at the radiator inlet similar to what you did.

I usually install a Failsafe thermostat when I do the first coolant flush on a vehicle. I do my streetbike at 2 years so I do the truck next Oct. and start it's two year cycle from there.

Ahh what would we do if we had to stop tinkering on our toys