Installed Autospring On King Ranch
05 150KR,
No, I haven't. I started it back in April this year and now I'm trying to decide if I'm going to use the spacer or a 3-4" lift kit. Donahoe Racing was supposed to come out with a kit (3", longer strut for the front) , but they haven't yet and it's been almost a year. I may have to go with a Sky Jacker or Rancho.
No, I haven't. I started it back in April this year and now I'm trying to decide if I'm going to use the spacer or a 3-4" lift kit. Donahoe Racing was supposed to come out with a kit (3", longer strut for the front) , but they haven't yet and it's been almost a year. I may have to go with a Sky Jacker or Rancho.
Originally posted by matjera
Truck looks awsome!
Great truck, great beer what else do ya need!
It dosent get any better than that!
Truck looks awsome!
Great truck, great beer what else do ya need!
It dosent get any better than that!
ccla,
SC by Georgia
jaguar63,
Good luck with your choice, keep us updated. Want to see those pics.
DD,
Thanks
Chris
I got an alignment today, don't really know how to read it so if someone could give me a class on it. I would appreciate it. Toe numbers where in bold on the before so I figure they need the alignment.
Well I have the measurements now from the ground to the tire well.
Before After
Rear 40" Rear 40"
Front (I have it home) Front 39 1/4"
I will post the before front after I get home but I thought it was 37"
I would like to thank everyone that posted on previous threads on how to install. That was the most mechanical work I have done on a vehicle and now I am ready for the intake and exhaust.
Thanks
Chris
I got an alignment today, don't really know how to read it so if someone could give me a class on it. I would appreciate it. Toe numbers where in bold on the before so I figure they need the alignment.
Well I have the measurements now from the ground to the tire well.
Before After
Rear 40" Rear 40"
Front (I have it home) Front 39 1/4"
I will post the before front after I get home but I thought it was 37"
I would like to thank everyone that posted on previous threads on how to install. That was the most mechanical work I have done on a vehicle and now I am ready for the intake and exhaust.
Last edited by 05 150 KR; Nov 29, 2004 at 02:40 PM.
I'll take a shot at this. My art work leaves something to be desired, but I think you can get the idea.
Camber and toe are pretty straight-forward. They are both tire wearing (if set out of specs) alignment settings. This crude drawing should explain what they are.
Caster is a little different...I'll make a different post about caster. The results sheet of your alignmnet show the before and after settings. Toe is measured in inches, and camber and caster are measured in degrees. Most cars call for just a hare of positive toe, and camber and caster settings vary quite a bit from different manufacturers.
Camber and toe are pretty straight-forward. They are both tire wearing (if set out of specs) alignment settings. This crude drawing should explain what they are.
Caster is a little different...I'll make a different post about caster. The results sheet of your alignmnet show the before and after settings. Toe is measured in inches, and camber and caster are measured in degrees. Most cars call for just a hare of positive toe, and camber and caster settings vary quite a bit from different manufacturers.
Caster is an angle more than anything else....think of an older car with upper and lower control arms and upper and lower ball joints. Now draw an imaginary line that pierces the ball joints...if that line is leaned toward the back of the car, that is positive caster...if it leans toward the front of the car, that is negative caster.
Caster is a none-tire-wearing alignment setting. It will affect the ride, but not wear any tires if it is out.
Positive caster gives straight-ahead stability - wheel wants to go in a straight line and resists turning (returns to straight from a turn)
Negative caster gives easy turning ability, but a squirrly ride (doesn't want to go straight, no resistance to turning)
The best analogy for this is think when you were a kid and rode your bike with the handlebars turned around. Think how your front forks were...by default, you had a lot of positive caster on your bike. When you turned the handlebars around, you wen't from positive to negative caster. Remember how squirrly that ride was?
Caster is a none-tire-wearing alignment setting. It will affect the ride, but not wear any tires if it is out.
Positive caster gives straight-ahead stability - wheel wants to go in a straight line and resists turning (returns to straight from a turn)
Negative caster gives easy turning ability, but a squirrly ride (doesn't want to go straight, no resistance to turning)
The best analogy for this is think when you were a kid and rode your bike with the handlebars turned around. Think how your front forks were...by default, you had a lot of positive caster on your bike. When you turned the handlebars around, you wen't from positive to negative caster. Remember how squirrly that ride was?
Net Wurker,
This is just want the newbie to maintenance needed so let me see if I got this correct.
My camber was off by .*
My caster was on target no change needed (on the positive side)
My toe was in (because the numbers were high positive) and brought back to a low positive number.
????
Does it matter that left and right don't have the same settings
Am I close
This is just want the newbie to maintenance needed so let me see if I got this correct.
My camber was off by .*
My caster was on target no change needed (on the positive side)
My toe was in (because the numbers were high positive) and brought back to a low positive number.
????
Does it matter that left and right don't have the same settings
Am I close
Last edited by 05 150 KR; Nov 29, 2004 at 08:42 PM.
Look at the numbers in the "actual" columns..these are the final results. Your left front camber is negative .1 degrees....the right front camber is negative .7 degrees. The specified range (for either side) is from negative 1.0 through positive .6 .......
So both sides fall within specs for camber. By the way , thats what the "cross-camber" means (the difference of camber between the two sides)
(.6 degrees of cross-camber on yours - .7 and .1)
So both sides fall within specs for camber. By the way , thats what the "cross-camber" means (the difference of camber between the two sides)
(.6 degrees of cross-camber on yours - .7 and .1)
Last edited by Net Wurker; Nov 29, 2004 at 09:06 PM.
Also noticed their machine doesn't measure Steering Angle Inclination (SAI)...doesn't really matter, if that is out, then parts are probably bent and need replacing. There isn't an adjustment for that.
EDIT: Toe// .02 on one side and .04 on the other is so close it's almost nothing. That is a good alignment, don't fret on those settings.
Correct...you had a lot of positive toe (toe-in) and now it's almost zero toe.
EDIT: Toe// .02 on one side and .04 on the other is so close it's almost nothing. That is a good alignment, don't fret on those settings.
Correct...you had a lot of positive toe (toe-in) and now it's almost zero toe.
Last edited by Net Wurker; Nov 29, 2004 at 09:02 PM.


