Shimmy while braking
Shimmy while braking
Just brought my truck in because when I brake, my steering wheel shimmys back and forth. They said they need to machine the rotors and they are waiting for the tool from Ford to do it. Does that make sense? Seems kinda weird that they don't have the tool yet...
Steve
Steve
I would have them replace the rotors instead of machining them. Simply because if/when they need to be turned again, you'll have to replace them. They're usually only good for 1 turning.. after that, they're scrap.
1. Yes, its possible, they may need an adapter to turn rotors if something is different, this will vay based on what type of brake lathe they have. After reading this I'll have to check ours to see if it'll turn the rotors. Ford doesn't specify as dealers purchase their own brake lathes and there are many, many different machines and some will need different adapators than others.
2. The will NOT replace the rotors. Ford won't allow rotor replacement under warranty unless you're under the minimum thickness. The dealer has to enter the before and after thickness of the rotors on the warranty claim so Ford controls this not the dealer. As for number of turnings it varys based on the rotor. The newer stuff can't be turned as many times before being under thickness, I think the auto makers are trying to save weight.
One suggestion I have is not holding the brakes on after a hard stop. I was told (may not be true, but I belive it) that rotor warpage is usually caused by pad material transfering to the rotor. This happens when pads are hot (hard stop) and then held after stopped. This creates a high spot that causes the problem and it gets worse as this spot grabs more than others making the vibration get worse. The reason I belive this is a I have a LX 5.0L Mustang that I autocross that despite having woefully inadaquite brakes they don't warp despite getting VERY VERY hot as I cost in and don't hold the brakes after I stop. My wife's Taurus warps brakes on a regular basis as she brakes very hard before a stop light and then holds the brakes throughout the light.
2. The will NOT replace the rotors. Ford won't allow rotor replacement under warranty unless you're under the minimum thickness. The dealer has to enter the before and after thickness of the rotors on the warranty claim so Ford controls this not the dealer. As for number of turnings it varys based on the rotor. The newer stuff can't be turned as many times before being under thickness, I think the auto makers are trying to save weight.
One suggestion I have is not holding the brakes on after a hard stop. I was told (may not be true, but I belive it) that rotor warpage is usually caused by pad material transfering to the rotor. This happens when pads are hot (hard stop) and then held after stopped. This creates a high spot that causes the problem and it gets worse as this spot grabs more than others making the vibration get worse. The reason I belive this is a I have a LX 5.0L Mustang that I autocross that despite having woefully inadaquite brakes they don't warp despite getting VERY VERY hot as I cost in and don't hold the brakes after I stop. My wife's Taurus warps brakes on a regular basis as she brakes very hard before a stop light and then holds the brakes throughout the light.
I had to have my brakes remachined at 4k miles. Now Im almost at 8K and need them to be fixed again. WTF??
If this happens again I will go outside ford and buy some upgraded ones.
Made a big difference when they first remachined my rotors but after a little while it went back to have a vibration when I braked.
If this happens again I will go outside ford and buy some upgraded ones.
Made a big difference when they first remachined my rotors but after a little while it went back to have a vibration when I braked.
Originally posted by XCR440SP \One suggestion I have is not holding the brakes on after a hard stop. I was told (may not be true, but I belive it) that rotor warpage is usually caused by pad material transfering to the rotor. This happens when pads are hot (hard stop) and then held after stopped. This creates a high spot that causes the problem and it gets worse as this spot grabs more than others making the vibration get worse. The reason I belive this is a I have a LX 5.0L Mustang that I autocross that despite having woefully inadaquite brakes they don't warp despite getting VERY VERY hot as I cost in and don't hold the brakes after I stop. My wife's Taurus warps brakes on a regular basis as she brakes very hard before a stop light and then holds the brakes throughout the light.

What about just heat concentration from the pads sitting tight?
Thanks for the ideas on braking, I will try that once I get it fixed. Apparently they are waiting for the tool so they can machine the rotors while it is on the rack. I believe that is what the guy told me. He said it's been on back order.
It worries me that someone else had the problem again so soon after getting them fixed. I'm at 9000 miles but have had the problem for awhile, just haven't been able to get it to get it fixed.
It worries me that someone else had the problem again so soon after getting them fixed. I'm at 9000 miles but have had the problem for awhile, just haven't been able to get it to get it fixed.
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Three out four of my rotors already have deep grooves in them and I can start to feel vibration in the steering wheel when I brake. I have 12k miles on the truck and will have to take the truck in to see what they say. I know I am not hard on the brakes I drive a lot of back roads, and am able to coast up to the stop signs and havent towed with the truck yet. I have hauled a few things fridge and sofas some brick etc but not enough to have the rotors look this bad. Does anyone who has towed or hauled have the same issue? Or for that matter does anyone with over 10k in miles, have problems with there rotors looking like they are getting heavy grooves in them?
Just curious
Just curious


