Has anyone out there removed the 2 inch spacer blocks yet to get this high rearend down??? It looks like it will not bother anything to remove them. Some may like that raked look but I don't and its hard to see cars that are close to the rear. Anyway I may be the first to do it, there has been some talk about it but that may be all.

 

IF/WHEN U DO IT POST PICS PLEASE!....thanks!....trying to decide if I want to go that route

 

ditto on posting pics if you do this.

Screwdriver

 

I am tempted to do this when I get my truck.

I think (will need more research) that you will need the 4x2 u-bolts and possibly shocks.

Also, I think the rear end needs to move up to the spring, but remain parallel to its original location. The block needs to be measured to verify that their is no angle built into it.

Someone with driveline experience could comment if this is true.

Supercrews may be more complex. I think they have the 2 piece driveshaft.

 

I am also very interested in the removal of these blocks to lower the vehicle for better handling, especially since I rarely take my truck off the pavement.

The only down side is you may have to tuck your skirt in when you enter the door!

 

I also want to remove the spacers, but what do I do when i have to tow a small (open) trailer with a couple of Harleys on it. Will the back of the truck be lower than the front? I'm assuming groos weight for the trailer and bikes is about 1,600 lbs. Tha'ts not alot, but I certainly don't want the back end to be lower than the front while towing. I would look like a dope who didn't know what the F@#$ I was doin' with such an awesome truck.

Any other solutions, maybe hight adjustable struts/shocks in the rear?

 

A trailer? Do your bikes break down a lot? j/k

 

Ha-Ha!!!

I will be heading for Sturgis, SD in the Summer of 2004 and will be trailering the Bikes out there.

 

Re: gross weight of 1600 pounds. Surely your tongue weight is considerably less, say 500#. Gross weight has little effect on vehicle height. The load you describe, if distributed correctly on the hitch, would be equivalent to a couple of sumo wrestlers in the bed.

 

I got an FX4 screw and was also considering leveling it out, but changed my mind after towing a trailer. A few weeks ago I towed a 24' enclosed trailer with 4 quads and equipment totalling about 5500-6000 Lbs. The rear suspension sagged down to where the truck was almost perfectly level. The weight was distributed fairly evenly with slightly more weight to the front. I think the first part of the rear leaf springs are much softer for a smooth ride, but with weight on the rear of the truck it gets into the overload part of the springs and doesn't sag as much once at that point. At least that's my theory.

There is nothing worse than a truck sitting lower in the rear than the front!

 

The front is lower for a reason.

A truck going "down hill" WILL get better gas mileage.

 

Airbags in the back might be worth considering as a possible solution. Take the blocks out, which will level the truck when running without a load, and then use the bags to keep things level when you load it up. Same idea might be useful for those that opt for the spring spacer lifts (i.e. Daystar) in the front, and then end up carrying a load or towing.

 

I got down to take a look to see about the spacer blocks you mentioned and I don't see anything that is 2 inch's that can be removed. Are you talking about the body spacers or axle leafspring spacers which I have none? I have the regular cab short bed perhaps mines different... thanks GG

 

There should be 2" blocks between the spring and axle.

4x4 only though.

 

If it isn't broke don't fool around with it. The engineers at Ford put that in there for a reason. Resist your temptations