Today I replaced the rear pads, rotors, and parking brake pads on my 01 F150. I have had the parts for a couple years and have been dreading doing this, knowing the parking brakes probably weren't going to be very fun.

I ran into a couple issues, most of which I was able to overcome. First off the passenger side parking brake adjuster wasn't accessible through the hole/window. Since I wasn't able to loosen I just used a rubber mallet to pound on the rotor until I was able to work it off. Interestingly enough the pass side parking brake pads didn't look so bad but I replaced them anyway. I struggled to clean up the parking brake lever up top and get this moving again, I don't have a bench vice but was able to hold one side with a vice grip and hit the other side with a hammer to loosen it up, cleaned with some brake cleaner and wire brush, and lubed it up so it moves again.

For the most part everything went back together easily, my biggest struggle was getting the nails and clips holding the parking brake pads in place, I called out my wife for an extra set of hands to hold the nails and pad while I secured the springs. Whew!

Drivers side parking brake pads on the other hand were in rough shape, all that was left of these pads was very rusted, almost nothing left of them, like there had been a rubbing/heat issue at one point. I was able to loosen the drivers side adjuster and the rotor came off easily though!

Upon putting the rotors back on I made sure they'd spin and I could hear the parking brakes rub, I used a pry bar to pull on the parking brake lever and the wheels wouldn't move when I did this. Caliper pistons seemed to press in just fine as well, got new pads on, put on new slider brackets, greased up the slider brackets and behind the pads, and got the calipers re-attached with the caliper bolts. Wheels back on, now my back is sore!

Took it for a 5 mile test drive testing the brakes several times after I was all cleaned up and noticed smoke coming from the drivers side rear wheel area. Lug nut are hot and new rotor is also very hot. I don't have it in me to take it back apart today, but will need to soon, before I drive it again I guess Can anyone recommend what I should look at first? I don't imagine I have a sticking caliper since it wasn't sticking previously. Since the parking brakes on this side were toast to begin with I wonder if these are rubbing. Should I take the rotor back off to inspect further or could I just try to loosen some at the adjuster? I'm open to any and all recommendations, just need to come up with the energy to attack this another day though!

 

I inspected a little further over my lunch break today....

I notice the when the parking brake is engaged that only the drivers side lever is pulled, and not the passenger side. When it's disengaged the drivers side lever goes back to the normal position.

I backed off the adjuster wheel on the drivers side all the way and went for a 4 mile test drive. I feel a slight drag as I drive, seems to not want to shift into OD when I get close to 50, and the pickup seems to slow faster on a coast, but no odd grinding noise or pulling.

Upon further inspection after the drive I notice the rotor is very hot in the drum/parking brake area. The disc part of the rotor and the caliper is not hot to the touch, so the parking brake on the drivers side must be dragging. I'll need to get the rotor back off to take another look, will probably just remove the parking brake parts for the time being if everything appears to be installed correctly.

 

Ok - one more update from me for today.

I removed the parking brake hardware and re-assembled everything, went for another test drive. And the heat in the rotor is still an issue. So either my caliper is sticking or I've got a wheel bearing issue right?

I know this forum has gotten much quieter than it was years ago but I'm open to any ideas. What's a good way to test the caliper/piston? I'm somewhat handy, but have never replaced a brake caliper. Also have never bleed brakes, assuming this would need to be done if I replace the caliper right?

 

Feel like I'm talking to myself, but eventually someone will chime in or I'll figure things out!

I've done some more reading using the search function on the site. It sounds like the calipers can fail and not release and/or the inside of the rubber line can collapse and not allow fluid to come back through, causing the brake to not release.

I've also watched some videos, the caliper and a brake bleed should be easy enough. But not sure I want to attempt the brake line. Considering ordering both and giving it a try. I can always do the caliper and attempt the brake line if replacing the caliper doesn't fix the issue right?

Again - open to any and all suggestions!

 

Rubber brake hoses collapsing are quite common.

 

Thanks glc, will get a hose and caliper ordered up!

 

Caliper may be fine if it is a collapsed hose.

 

Thank you I ordered the caliper anyway, honestly just want to get it fixed, without paying a shop big bucks! Caliper and line cost about $100, I spent another $80 on a Caprio vacuum bleeder (kind of excited to use), so once everything shows up hopefully I can fix this up once and for all!

 

Do not allow the reservoir to drain completely or you will wind up having to bleed all 4 wheels and the ABS pump.

 

Thank you. I'll keep an eye on it, but I figured its due for a full flush and since I have the vacuum bleeder now, I'll just do all 4 anyway!

 

the abs pump has a special way it needs to be bled, you need a scanner that can do it... it isn't just a matter of trying to use a vacuum bleeder... again, don't let the reservoir run dry

 

Thank you. Can you say if there's any tricks to keeping it from running dry while replacing the rear line and caliper? I assume this will take me a couple hours, should I just check and fill every 30 minutes while replacing the parts or is there a way to block the line near the rear axle?

 

it shouldn't just come gushing out, and you should be working way faster than just letting all of it drain out. fill it and watch it

 

check the soft lines

they deteriorate and collapse

 

Quick update on my end!

I replaced the rear drivers side line and bleed the brakes. Took it for a test drive and still have a hot rear drivers side wheel. Going to let it cool down tonight and will then replace the caliper tomorrow morning, fingers crossed this will fix it!