Happy Birthday to my 2003 F150 Supercrew. Its been quite the journey.

I've been on the forum since 2005t, and this forum has had a HUGE influence on my mod bug, and will always hold a special place in my heart. I certainly wish the forum was even half its popularity of the "hay day"




Anyways. Decided today was a great day to catch up on my annual oil change, and install some new goodies.
-Patrick aka Patman

 

Nice video with the oil change and the starter wrap!

I remember when you were diligently working on that truck and all of the posts.

 

Happy Birthday Fiddy!!!

Wish I still had my 02, but glad I still have the '17.

 

I have followed your conversion work off and on and would be more than I would take on being older.
You did carry through with it when many others would have abandon the project.
You mentioned a 2018 burning oil.
I purchased a 2018 used dealer CPO and later found it to pass oil to a notable degree.
Being a motor head, I searched many >technical sources< and believed I had established the Root Cause of the oil issue with these Gen 3 from 2018 to 2021.
With that said, I found a way to clear the oil usage that the factory tried to cover up with dealer applied foolish attempts that never proved out.
As you know, in 2018 the gen 3 engine were not equipped with cylinder sleeves but had Plasma spray-in application for bore finish on an Alum. Block. This also resulted in a cylinder displacement larger than 5L, from 2018 on.
As well, the blocks are not rebuildable by the normal means at the dealer or home level due to the special cylinder liner.
If your interested and the forum, in hearing about the oil usage issue, why it happened and what I found to make up for a factory lack of quality control that caused these blocks to make it to the engine build dept. and out to the public.
My 2018 no longer passes oil more than any good engine that has to use a very little to keep parts from seizing.
I began the quest at 45k and saw the results at 50k and now at over 81k with no oil usage from the 50k mileage point.
I believe the factory finally caught up with there bore issue after some 3 year of letting it go and my reports on other forum about it.
Good luck..

 

Bluegrass, what did you do to solve the issue?

 

Hello again.
Searching technical sources about cylinder liner coating, I came across the mechanics of application and some history of the efforts from the past to the present using different coating and test results.
One source mentioned Fords present application procedure and dropped a hint about application speed in the process.
Here is what grabbed my attention:
If the application speed is incorrect within narrow limits, a poor cold finish can result.
That poor finish was said to be excessive "Porosity". That to me meant the cylinder linings are hanging on to too much oil.
From there you can understand the Ring Pak may not be able to handle the resultant oil volume to be scrapped down in either piston direction by the Ring Pak.
This I judged to be the Root Source of the issue.
Further, another source discussed Ring Seal vs Bore finish and oil grades.
Then what followed was oil additives. Seems there are only 4 sources of Additive Packages that are custom developed, tested in house and sold to oil marketing companies on a custom request basis.
This info came via the son of a former Nascar driver owner who grew up in that engine shop and is now a VP in a Ring co. and has a lot of technical knowledge and contacts.
The final hint I picked up was what Molly does in the oil as an additive due to it's special chemical physical properties.
That affect was to >>fill<< surface porosity and voids on a micro scale and provide a very slick surface and reduce friction along with filling the liner voids.
There is a bit more to this that is at least a two step bore hone final finish.
Even then the Porosity is still left in place at deeper levels than the final bore piston size.
You can guess my thought was to use Moly additive to see if the liner bores would fill in. Moly for additive application will never hurt the engine, even on a trial basis.
Now you have the near full story of how this came about and worked for me to fix the oil usage issue on the GEN 3 Coyote engines that got a poor bore finish.
I just got lucky as an armchair engineering guess.
Not every engine got a poor bore.
The final result of this trial was a huge quieting of the engine overall noise level from the Moly coating in the rest of the engine dynamic operations.
.
More info:
The oil passage is/was through two different routes.
A. The ring seal during the intake vacuum stroke pulling oil off the poor ring seal into combustion and out the exhaust.
B. Excess Oil mist in the crank case from excessive ring seal blow-by during the power stroke.
That oil was being pulled through the PCV system back to the Throttle Body and right into combustion through the intake stroke.
Here is where the excess oil passage comes from due to both paths combined.
Note: these engines have oil spray nozzle aimed at the bottoms of the pistons to make matters worse, for oil control issues.
This, unfortunately, can result in killing the Cats early over time from the excess oil they are forced to pass. as well as affecting the OX Sensors.
C. Another issue can be ignition ping and knock because oil in the mixture will reduce the Octane rating of the fuel in suspension. To further this undesirable action, the high-pressure fuel injectors are dominant in fuel feed with the intake tract injector as addon back-up. The issue with this is the h.p. injectors only have a short time to fuel on the piston up stroke for compression and can result in low-speed spark Knock just from that source because there is little swirl to air mixing possible like there is through an intake valve opening from the port injectors.
.
What I do:
1. Not fill crank case oil with much more than 7 qts 5w20 Blend, then add the additive.
This mix ratio is quite small for 7 qts of oil and could be doubled without issue. I don't at present time.
.
Doing this procedure fresh on an engine requires time for the Moly to do the expected job over about 5k miles +/- so be patient and keep checking the level for signs of slowing loss.
It's a scientific test and operation so results could vary.
What Moly source? Almost any store that markets LIQU M0S2 in a 13 oz/300 ML can at about the $10 Price.
Moly is Black in natural color so will color fresh oil dark. This is in no way a sales pitch for this product, only a common source from a well-known European co.
Hope you find it an interesting read.
if anyone tries it, it will not Hurt the engine and come back to tell the results after time given for it to work if it does.
Good luck.

 

It's a beautiful truck that gives me motivation to do some mods to mine. Great job.

 

bump for fiddy