1999 F-150 XL 4.6L 2wd Crank No Start. Bad idle
So I have been driving this truck around and it runs fine, seem like there is no issues whatsoever. I went to start it the next day after driving it the day before and it just cranked and would not turn over. This has been off and on where it usually starts but occasionally just wont turn over. When it does happen, it usually starts the next day or so just fine after sitting like there was no issues at all. Theft light isn't on. Check Engine light isn't on. It runs good but I would really like to get my truck to be much more reliable than its been. The truck is a 1999 F-150 XL 4.6L Triton Automatic 2WD. So far I have cleaned the throttle body and the Idle Air control valve. The fuel regulator is on the way. Other than that I dont know what's wrong and dont want to keep throwing parts at it. Any Ideas would be very helpful.
Edit. This has not happened in a while. It seems to only happen after the truck idles and gets shut off without driving. I've also Noticed a few times when I am driving it feels like the truck is going to stall when i accelerate. It makes a clunking sound and feels like the truck bounces. Any Ideas would be very helpful
Edit. This has not happened in a while. It seems to only happen after the truck idles and gets shut off without driving. I've also Noticed a few times when I am driving it feels like the truck is going to stall when i accelerate. It makes a clunking sound and feels like the truck bounces. Any Ideas would be very helpful
Last edited by Tizzle; Jul 19, 2023 at 01:03 PM.
Unrelated issue but the ignition is also very hard to get to turn. I put the key in but it won’t turn very easily I have to play around for about a minute or 2 to get the key in the run position.
do believe it could have something to do with the Idle air control valve.
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It runs fine when I am on the accelerator l, but idles rough
not sure when it was last changed, I just barley bought h to e truck. I believe the fuel pump is priming and I do have fuel pressure to the rail, I didn’t test with a garage but when I pushed against the Schaefer valve fuel came out
Borrow a gauge from Autozone. Requires minimum 28 psi to start and run. With it running, pull the vacuum line off the FPR, pressure should go up at least 5 psi. I'd change the filter on general principles.
Rough idle could be time for a tuneup - plugs, maybe wires, maybe coil packs. Wouldn't hurt to pull the plugs anyway and do a compression test, you may have bought a truck with a sick engine. If you change the plugs, use only Motorcraft and torque to 28 ft/lb.
You may need an IAC, but you can pull it and clean it with WD-40, work the plunger with a small screwdriver till it works smooth.
Rough idle could be time for a tuneup - plugs, maybe wires, maybe coil packs. Wouldn't hurt to pull the plugs anyway and do a compression test, you may have bought a truck with a sick engine. If you change the plugs, use only Motorcraft and torque to 28 ft/lb.
You may need an IAC, but you can pull it and clean it with WD-40, work the plunger with a small screwdriver till it works smooth.
Last edited by glc; Jul 5, 2023 at 10:43 PM.
Borrow a gauge from Autozone. Requires minimum 28 psi to start and run. With it running, pull the vacuum line off the FPR, pressure should go up at least 5 psi. I'd change the filter on general principles.
Rough idle could be time for a tuneup - plugs, maybe wires, maybe coil packs. Wouldn't hurt to pull the plugs anyway and do a compression test, you may have bought a truck with a sick engine. If you change the plugs, use only Motorcraft and torque to 28 ft/lb.
You may need an IAC, but you can pull it and clean it with WD-40, work the plunger with a small screwdriver till it works smooth.
Rough idle could be time for a tuneup - plugs, maybe wires, maybe coil packs. Wouldn't hurt to pull the plugs anyway and do a compression test, you may have bought a truck with a sick engine. If you change the plugs, use only Motorcraft and torque to 28 ft/lb.
You may need an IAC, but you can pull it and clean it with WD-40, work the plunger with a small screwdriver till it works smooth.
Yes, it can have codes stored without the check engine light being illuminated. When my 2002 was turning on the starter but starting intermittently the PCM relay was the culprit and if this is the case you will have a P1000 stored. This shows up when you disconnect the battery, reset the codes, or the PCM isn't being powered up.
Techron better for these trucks? I already bought the gumout but havent used it. Is it worth to go buy. Currently the truck is running and idling fine as long as the ac is not turned on while its idling. still got to figure that out but for now its still a working truck






