99 F150 with 285K miles. Right rear brake started skidding during stops (anti-lock doesn't work). Found a leaking slave cylinder. Changed cylinder, shoes and drum. Skidding went away but now brake distorts and shakes the truck during braking after 20 minutes of driving. Changed drum from O'Reillys brand to Motorcraft. Was okay on way to work, started shaking again on the way home. I think drum is overheating, like maybe the shoes are dragging, but the shoe adjustment is fine, not rubbing at all. The shoes are fully retracted when I look at them, so I don't see how it could be weak springs keeping shoes from retracting. I am out of ideas. Anyone have this happen or have any ideas? The only part I haven't changed is the springs, so maybe that's next?

 

Check the rubber brake hose to that wheel, it's possibly collapsing and keeping the brake engaged. Also check the parking brake linkage. Fix the ABS.

 

I looked last night and have steel brake lines to the wheel. Is there a rubber part of the brake line further upstream? Also checked parking brake operation. The brakes fully retract when parking brake is released. I'm wondering if the return springs are getting weak.

 

Took me a while to figure this one out, thought I'd post what I learned here to help out. Changed drum brakes shoes on a 99 2D with 285k miles. Also put on new drums from Oreilly's. A week later truck started shaking like crazy during braking after 30 minutes of driving. Used an infrared thermometer to check brake temps and found right side 156F, left side 110F. Replaced slave cylinder on right side because it appeared to be leaking. Still had brake shake, but this time left wheel was hot. Then I returned drums to Oreilly and bought Motorcraft drums from Rock Auto. These reduced shaking, but not entirely. Left wheel was still getting hot. This is caused by a dragging shoe. Removed drum to check operation. Noticed rear shoe was not retracting fully when moved with a screwdriver. Greased the contact pads between shoe and backing plate. Noticed that top rear spring was not tight. Bent the end of spring at top so it would pull tighter. Now the brake would fully retract. Drove it yesterday and problem almost gone. A car nut told me to also change the rubber brake hose on top of axle due to high mileage. The hoses get restricted with age and prevent brake shoes from retracting. Haven't done that yet but will very soon. Here are my recommendations for drum brake jobs, wish I had done this first time around:
1) Use only Motorcraft drums if yours are worn out
2) Grease the contact pads on backing plate and all other recommended areas lightly with hi temp disc brake grease
3) Put on new springs, preferably Ford OEM or Motorcraft
4) Install new slave cylinders, only $12 for Raybestos at Rock Auto
5) Change the rubber hoses and bleed system with correct fluid from your owner's manual ( my 99 takes Dot 3).
6) Check that shoes retract fully before assembling

 

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