I have a 97 f150 4x4 package
4.6 with about 300k, odometer stopped at 224k
anyways trust say for about 2 years then I decided to fix it, I replaced the fuel pump (with strainer, etc) complete brake overhaul EXCEPT master & booster, new power steering pump & lines, a/c compressor... drive it for about a month, I’ve replaced intake manifold gasket, fuel injectors, plugs...
Last Friday I was driving & it died on me, started it back up drive home, went to leave again & it started surging like gauges jumping up & down, lights/rap cutting on & off then itd just die...
i still haven’t figured out this issue, I tested the alternator & turned on everything & it was at 14.5, revved up to about 3k rpms & nothing happened, all my connectors are tight, haven’t found any vacuum leaks as it just started doing this after I put my son on the bus to school & was heading to work

 

LOAD test the alternator and battery. Parts stores can do that in the parking lot.

 

Any codes ?

 

I’ll have to try that
my check engine light don’t work & I don’t have a scanner to hook into it, I’m sure I do have codes because I don’t have an exhaust (straight piped), no o2s either 😂😂

 

no codes as my check engine light doesn’t work & I don’t have a scanner, if I can get a scanner to hook up to it then I’m sure I’ll have several codes as I don’t have an exhaust (straight piped) & no o2 sensors lol

 

the computer needs input from the O2 sensors in order to control fuel metering.

 

I am almost afraid to ask what how your check engine light stopped working



But I am vert curious to know how you thought it would be a good idea to not have oxygen sensors

 

i think the previous owner unhooked it, not sure...
i left out the o2s even I fixed the exhaust cause I had to straight pipe it & haven’t replaced the exhaust or o2s yet...
When I did the intake manifold gasket I noticed the knock sensor was unhooked & I replaced that & while I was at it I replaced the cylinder head temp sensor too

 

sounds lie the truck needs the nut holding the steering wheel to be replaced

 

Regardless of whether you have cats or not, without at least front O2's it will never run right.

 

If you want the truck to run right, either fix the front O2 sensors, or if you want to straight pipe it, find reputable O2 eliminators.

Good luck...

 

the fronts / upstreams ARE required unless the truck is tuned for them to be off (not usually an option for entry level vehicles)

 

as far as the o2s I’m going to replace the exhaust & replace all 4 o2s eventually, but as far as o2s missing the truck runs fine, feels like it has a small misfire but that’s it...
i got a good scanner from my boss & hooked it up & didn’t have any codes except the codes for the 4 missing o2 sensors, I cleared the codes drove for about 30 minutes & the 4 codes came back...
my problem ended up being a loose ground wire,
i tightened it up & trucks running no issues besides the obvious

 

The truck has my condolences

 

Hey don't feel bad. I drove a 98 model with vacuum leaks for so long the check engine light burnt out. I finally got them fixed at 200k, the truck ran another 65k before it was parked. I got it with 13 Mike's on it and drove it 225,000 miles before finally changing out the nut that held the wheel. It was attached to the navigation computer, which I still have.