P0705. Replaced the switch, same thing.
Now what?

When it triggers the SES light, also will bink OD light on the shifter.

2001, F-150, XLT, SuperCab, 5.4L, 2V, 4R70W, 4x4, 4.56 gears, LSD, 8.8 front, 9.75 rear. 4" Rancho lift, LT315/75/16, 16" OE alloy wheels

http://youtu.be/hSQpacXC0-g

 

You replaced the TRS? Is it adjusted correctly? Did you clean the connector and check for corroded or broken wires?

P0705 FORD Possible Causes

Faulty Park/Neutral Position Switch
Misadjusted Park/Neutral Position Switch
Park/Neutral Position Switch harness is open or shorted
Park/Neutral Position Switch circuit poor electrical connection

How do I fix code P0705 FORD?

Check the "Possible Causes" listed above. Visually inspect the related wiring harness and connectors. Check for damaged components and look for broken, bent, pushed out, or corroded connector's pins.

Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p0705_ford.html

 

Replaced the switch on the outside of the trans using a 15mm nut and 8mm bolts


the marks are lined up. Trans shifts. Reverse lights come on in reverse. I believe it is properly adjusted.

Wires and connector appear ok. I didn't see anything obviously out of place. It clicks in.

Did the same thing with the old switch too.

 

The switch passes operational information to the PCM in response to its position you shift to..
There is an open circuit in one or more of the harness wires.
What effect happens to transmission operation?
No drive, no 1st, no 2nd., in Park, in Neutral , D , reverse, no crank in Park or Neutral etc. etc. or even none. This can be a clue.
You need to clear the code to see if it comes back after replacing the TRS.

 

Yes, code came back after switch replaced. As well as the OD flashing light

I do have all the gears. Truck starts fine in P or N. Reverse lights work in reverse

 

Clear it, they come back

 

Well, it's at a shop now. To the tune of $140/hour for diagnostic....

 

They will likely find that it is either a wiring fault or a fault in the PCM.

 

So $285 later....
Should be fixed. Took it on some short trips and no issues.

Said they traced a wire and it was arcing.

They did say I at least installed my new switch correctly

 

So, I have drivin around all day and it hasn't come back.

 

Your shop labor rates out there are ridiculous. My independent shop which is owned by a former Ford master tech charges $75 an hour.

 

Not sure what labor rates are at other places.
I wanted it fixed. it was a transmission shop near my house. $140/hr for diagnostic. Was fixed in 2 hours. $285 was 2 hours and $5 parts.

Everything is expensive out here, still over $3 gallon for 87 octane
also, this fixed another issue I was havimg so it seems so far
Sooooo.... another thing. When I come to a stop @ a red light. Rpm is @ 900. Then after about 10 seconds, it drops to about 500, has what feels to be a kick, then comes back up to regualr idle around 700.

 

Clean the Idle Air Control Valve is it hasn't been cleaned lately.

 

I don't think i have an iac issue. Since the tranny was fixed. That issue has not presented since.
truck appears to be running great

 

The IAC is used to control Idle air bypass.
If the internal pintle sticks the idle can be intermittent in level. Throttle plate gum/crud can also be a factor.
If the internal 'dash-pot function' is blocked, it cannot be cleared or cleaned because you cannot get at it.
Idle dropping below about 600 suggest it's sticking closed, then suddenly opens. Usually the effects of parts temperatures.
Normally idle is kept very even at a point determined mainly by the cylinder head temperature and IAT sensors in a non-fault system..