2001 ford f150 supercrew 5.4l 4x4 - 210,000 miles

Good Afternoon - I have my first engine running issue since I purchased this truck 10 days ago.

3 days ago I removed that eom cover that covers the throttle body (reads: 5.4l on the top of the cover),
I didnt drive it though, until this morning. As soon as I started the engine I noticed it to be running a bit rough. I drove it around town a bit and then a "Check Engine" light came on in the dash.

It seems to idle pretty normal, cant really hear/feel the miss much. When at operating temperature it idles at 7rpm - no fluctuations..

I stopped at Autozone and they check for codes. I have the 2 codes:

P0301 - cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0171 - system too lean (bank 1)

After the codes check, I drove it around, stopped several times, checked for wires and hoses to be loose or disconnected. At one point I thought I had it figured out... The #1 fuel injector electrical connection pulled right off, was Not clicked into place, was not able to get the connector to click into place on the injector so I added a zip tie around the part of the electrical connector that clamps over the little ridge/hooks on the fuel injector. I was a blt to get the connector to stay on firmly to the injector using the zip tie.It ran well for a few miles and then started missing again - Rechecked the connector, it ran good briefly but as I picked up a little speed it started missing again. I did this same routine several times, to where it didnt seem to help anymore when I focused on the fuel injector connector.

I am picking up a Ford Motorcraft Coil this evening at the local Dealership for $55 - part #12029

I have ordered a set of Motorcraft spark plugs but they wont be in for a few days - part #AGSF-22W

I guess my question for right now is:
*Do coils go out/quit working abruptly like this? I am assuming Yes but, I am new to this 5.4l 2 valve engine.

I havent checked it yet but... could a loose spark plug cause this same codes?

When I remove the current #1 coil this evening or in the morning, I will check the spark plug to see how tight it is. I may even remove the spark plug, take a look down the spark plug hole for Threads. Put a very light dab of anti seize on the spark plug threads and replace it back in.

Also... the current coil that is in the #1 position has a this number on top of it: "1L2U - 12A366-AA" - I cant find a Ford Motorcraft part number online to match this.
Is this a Cheap/Not well made remake of the Correct Ford Motorcraft Coil part #3W7Z12029AA that am picking up from Ford this evening??

All advice gratefully received!!

Thank You

 

Lean on that bank would point more toward the injector than it would a plug or coil, there's still something wrong with that connector or injector itself.

With Motorcraft plugs, do not use antiseize. Torque to 28 ft/lb.

That part number is valid, it's OEM for 4.6/5.4.

 

Which ParNumber is the Correct one? (I want to make sure I have it right)

I am attaching a picture of the #1 injector - please tell me anything that doesnt look right?

Is it an OEM Injector?
Is the fuel rail attached properly? it looks to be sitting ****eyed, is this Ok?
If the problem Were the Fuel Injector... would I replace just the o-rings and re-install it?
How would I check the fuel injector Connector exactly?

I am good at fixing Things/everything... once I know how to go about a particular repair.

 

Part number really doesn't matter, all 4.6 and 5.4 2 valve engines use the same COP. I sure wouldn't pay $55 for one, Motorcraft or not. Denso and Delphi are also good, you just need to look for DG508 compatibility. Before replacing a COP, swap it with another cylinder, clear the codes, and see what comes back.

I honestly don't know, but common sense also tells me that doesn't look right. You can use noid lights to see if the injector is pulsing.

 

I appreciate all the help so far Sir!!

I dont have many of testing tools that maybe some folkes have. I learn everything I can from others experiences with the same issue and make a decision and go from there. Usually works out fine... so far anyway.

Yes, I know I paid too much for this coil But, I know where to get them for much less money now. I wanted to have the first coil to be from Ford so I would have the Correct part numbers and all. Now I am set.

There was one individual on a different site that had the same 2 codes on his with the same running problems. He first changed out all 6 spark plugs, that didnt change it. He cleaned the MAF, that didnt fix it. He switched the bad coil to another cylinder and the engine miss traveled with that coil to the other cylinder. He then bought a new coil and replaced the bad one with it and his problem was gone.
If this cold doesnt fix it I am good with that, I will just have an extra coil for when one does eventually go bad.

I learned something from the parts manager about the part numbers for this coild.
1) the part number is on the sealed plastic bag it comes in [DG-508] [3W7Z-12029-AA]
2) the numbers on the coil itself are the Ford Control Number [8W7E-12A366-AA]

His explanation helped me to understand why there are 2 different sets of numbers, one set on the sealed plastic bag that the Motorcraft part comes in and one different set on the coil itself.

I will R&R the #1 coil in the morning and then let you know if it fixed the problem.

Thanks Again!

 

seems you jumped PAST the diagnostic part....
remove the coil from missing cylinder.
remove ANOTHER coil......
swap their locations
clear codes
drive it
see if MISS travels WITH the suspected BAD COIL....
Thats when you go buy a coil.
The reason for this is to VERIFY that it's a BAD coil. Throwing "new" parts at stuff causes more problems without verifying what your problem is....just because it's NEW doesn't mean it's GOOD!!! words to live by.

I would suspect if you havent changed plugs in ...say 80,000 miles...you need plugs. (i just did mine after 90,000 they were so smoked...gap was almost .100 ...instead of .045...lol)

BTW...you can buy replacement "fuel injector connector" . is a pita to get the terminals out of the connector but...if yours is broke..thats what you do.

 

I am listening

I didnt change the coil out with this new coil yet.

I will try this: moving the #1 cylinder coil to the #2 position. Remove the #1 spark plug and check it, if it looks good, I will move it to the #3 cylinder. Then I will drive it until I get a Service Engine light again. (I saw this on a YouTube vid) (see below)


The original owner stated that the spark plugs were last changed at approx. 165,000 miles. (truck now has 210,000 miles) I have ordered a set of the OEM Motorcraft part #AGSF-22WM spark plugs from Walmart Online for $32.95.

*Can you give me a online site where I can purchase the Coils for the Best Price please?

Aslo..... I have discovered that my 5.4l has the Bosch part [#0 280 150 556] fuel injectors. Did Ford install these at the Factory as EOM? or are these Aftermarket fuel injectors?

Who sells the: "fuel injector connectors" for my 2001 f150 5.4l?

 

rockauto.com is a good place to buy parts. They should have motorcraft, delphi, and denso cops and they are all recommended by the forum.

 

Factory injectors are Bosch.

Denso is one of Ford's OEM's for coils, rockauto.com has team for 25 bucks apiece.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...tion+coil,7060

Rockauto.com also has the fuel injector connectors with pigtails, splice them in.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...connector,2577

 

"Noid test lights"... can you give me an online site/page with the one would need to test the fuel injector connectors?
Can I use the same Noid to test the Coil Connector as well? (if so, I''lll buy 2 of them)

Would this Noid set do both tests at the same time... one connected the #1 fuel injector connector & one connected to the Coil Connector?

 

That set is just for injectors. You would need an inline spark tester to check the coils. Before buying them check with auto parts stores, they may have them in their loaner tools.

 

Regarding the Amazon Spark Tester... The boot on the tester goes over the spark plug while spark is plug still in the cylinder head and the silver/metal end of the tester slides into the coil?

start the engine and look for the light to flash in the tester. If the light flashes with the revolution of the engine, that means the 1) Coil the 2) Spark Plug and 3) Coil Connector/Wiring are All working correctly?

or... which of the above 3 is the tester testing?

 

Yes to all. As I said, check parts stores. Autozone and O'Reilly here have loaner tools, I would assume Advance does too, I wouldn't know because we don't have Advance here.

 

Spark plugs take a 9/16 socket on the 2001 5.4l engine?

 

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