Check engine light
Check engine light
OK i have checked all connections still i cant get this light to go off. i had to replace my gas tank about a month ago and also the fuel pressure sensor, Im not have trouble driving i have driving all over put at least 200 miles on it and still it wont go off. Any ideas or help with this?
Read out the OBD2 codes. Most parts stores will do this free of charge, or you can buy a code reader for 20 bucks. This is an essential tool these days if you do your own work.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tou...r-Red/54620271
Post the exact numeric P-codes. Also provide truck details, we can't see it through the Internet.
Disconnect the battery or unplug the PCM fuse for a few minutes to clear the memory, see if the light comes back on, read the codes again.
If one of the codes is P1000, you have one or more sensors that are not ready, drive it normally till it clears.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tou...r-Red/54620271
Post the exact numeric P-codes. Also provide truck details, we can't see it through the Internet.
Disconnect the battery or unplug the PCM fuse for a few minutes to clear the memory, see if the light comes back on, read the codes again.
If one of the codes is P1000, you have one or more sensors that are not ready, drive it normally till it clears.
Last edited by glc; May 23, 2020 at 11:57 PM.
put at least 200 miles on it and still it wont go off. Any ideas or help with this?
Without codes, it's hard to tell, especially since you replaced the fuel tank.
I'm going to take an educated guess, and I'm willing to say it's likely a "small" evap leak.
Could be from a gasket/gas cap/evap lines and it's detecting it from a pressure differential. Maybe from not tightening something up, or possibly a gasket could've gotten crushed or has a crack in it. Or something simple as a nicked evap hose. Or even a bad gas cap. (People have replaced fuel tanks over a bad gas cap!)
Again, just guessing here...
You might've accidentally unplugged/nicked/jarred another connector loose and I could be way off.
I'm going to take an educated guess, and I'm willing to say it's likely a "small" evap leak.
Could be from a gasket/gas cap/evap lines and it's detecting it from a pressure differential. Maybe from not tightening something up, or possibly a gasket could've gotten crushed or has a crack in it. Or something simple as a nicked evap hose. Or even a bad gas cap. (People have replaced fuel tanks over a bad gas cap!)
Again, just guessing here...
You might've accidentally unplugged/nicked/jarred another connector loose and I could be way off.
You sure it's a P0435? That has nothing to do with the fuel, fuel tank, or evap system. I've never heard of this code on a F150. If that's the true code, read the below linked article.
P0435 Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2, Sensor 1)
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0435
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0435
P0435 Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2, Sensor 1)
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0435
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0435
You sure it's a P0435? That has nothing to do with the fuel, fuel tank, or evap system. I've never heard of this code on a F150. If that's the true code, read the below linked article.
P0435 Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2, Sensor 1)
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0435
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0435
P0435 Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2, Sensor 1)
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0435
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0435
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DTC P0453 indicates there is an issue with the FTP sensor or its circuit.
Check to make sure it's properly plugged in first. After that, you'll either have to do some diagnostics or resort to just making guesses.
Check to make sure it's properly plugged in first. After that, you'll either have to do some diagnostics or resort to just making guesses.
Updating to the ford people, note to self. take your time when putting things together. Anyway so i believe i found the issue, while once again dropping the tank and going over the process part by part i noticed the one vent valve wasn't in correctly. i didn't push it all the way down it was midway and ended up cutting threw the plastic. so i replaced all hoses and reused the vent valve, as the seat it does sit in was not damage, had to oil up the o rings a bit to helps with pushing these fittings on the tank,so got everything put back together and in.. than ran it for 10 mins, off and on. then a test drive, 30 minutes on the streets stopping turning it on and of a few times, then back homes, well still no Light. last time i did this it came on 1 min after startup. hopefully its stays this way. Thanks all for your help and hopefully ill take my time next time..







