98 F150 blower will not work
98 F150 blower will not work
1998 Ford F150 XLT single cab. I have no air from the blower in any speed. Checked all the fuses for the blower motor circuit and they are good. Put my hand on the relay under the dash next to the flasher relay with the cover off and turned the fan switch on and off and felt no click. I could feel the click in the flasher relay when working.
Where can I find a schematic for my vehicle so I can put my meter on the correct location to check for voltages?
At this point I can only guess that the relay is bad or that there is no ground to the relay.
Doing a search on the net, I have read about resistor problems and the motor itself can be bad. But I want to narrow it down.
Thanks.
Where can I find a schematic for my vehicle so I can put my meter on the correct location to check for voltages?
At this point I can only guess that the relay is bad or that there is no ground to the relay.
Doing a search on the net, I have read about resistor problems and the motor itself can be bad. But I want to narrow it down.
Thanks.
turned the fan switch on and off and felt no click
If the blower relay isn't "clicking", then neither the resistor nor the blower motor can be the problem.
1. Check fuse F24 under the dash, it should be HOT IN RUN. Verify with a meter on the fuse test points if it's not visibly blown.
2. Pull the relay out and check the coil to see whether it's open or not.
After that, it gets more technical.
Last edited by projectSHO89; Oct 6, 2019 at 05:24 PM.
Hope you had the ignition switch in RUN....
If the blower relay isn't "clicking", then neither the resistor nor the blower motor can be the problem.
1. Check fuse F24 under the dash, it should be HOT IN RUN. Verify with a meter on the fuse test points if it's not visibly blown.
2. Pull the relay out and check the coil to see whether it's open or not.
After that, it gets more technical.
If the blower relay isn't "clicking", then neither the resistor nor the blower motor can be the problem.
1. Check fuse F24 under the dash, it should be HOT IN RUN. Verify with a meter on the fuse test points if it's not visibly blown.
2. Pull the relay out and check the coil to see whether it's open or not.
After that, it gets more technical.
I have seen that fuse and others where they pug in at the connector were good, but on the other side they wire connector would back out just enough not to work.
Watched a friend who is a master mechanic pull his hair out trying to figure out why his truck would go dead or not crank setting still.
On the fuse box under the dash, the above had happened and it was not a fast job to fix.







