1999 F-150 XL 4x4 5.4L Supercab. I replaced my multi-functional switch because my turn-signals would only work occasionally. After reading the fix here on this forum, seemed pretty cut and dry. It does appear to have fixed the problem (won't know for a while - everything works on the switch anyway), but after I hooked up my battery, I got the red blinking light and the truck wouldn't even turn over. no clicking sounds - nothing. All lights, windows, etc are working just fine. Odometer is lit (no dashes). I've not buttoned up the column yet because I want to glue those wires back in the module since they were all really lose. I'm going to look again tonight for anything obvious.
It was getting late so i had to quit for the evening. Tonight, I'll try "whacking" the steering column and if that doesn't do anything, I will disconnect the battery and let it sit for 30 min. If that doesn't work, I'll disconnect the battery for 2 days. After reading MANY posts here on the subject as well as the web/u-tube, that's all I know to do so far (other than somehow get it to a dealer).

Any other suggestions/thoughts?
Thank you in advance.

 

You're supposed to have a red blinking light under certain conditions. The question is the flash rate. A slow-flashing THEFT light is normal with the key in the OFF position. A fast flashing THEFT light with the key in RUN is not. Which is it?

That is NOT a PATS-induced failure. A 99 does not have a starter interrupt as part of the PATS system.

More likely, you introduced a new fault into the system that has both triggered the PATS event (assuming a fast-flash) as well as interrupting the starting circuit. Since you were working on the steering column, I'd suggest reviewing that work to see if a plug is loose or the harness to to the ignition switch got disturbed or stretched.

 

Thanks for the response.
Two blinking lights. One is a tiny red bulb on the edge of the dash above the radio. I've only had the truck for a week and it's always been off. It's now a slow blink. the other flashing light is the word "theft" in the instrument cluster. It was blinking fast when I would attempt to start the truck.
Good to know it's not a PATs thing - like you said then, I may have knocked something loose.

 

Update - still no joy. Had the neg off battery for a few hours, didn't work. Locked all doors and unlocked them with a key. Nope. Looked for wires that my have been bumped when I changed out the multi-functional switch. Nothing obvious. Now I have both pos and neg of the battery disconnected since last night - we'll see if that works when I get home this evening. I even checked the blinker fluid. ;-) So I still have the THEFT light that blinks slowly and then goes off when I turn the key as if I'm trying to start it. The small LED light over the radio on the edge of the dash constantly blinks no mater what (slowly - maybe once a second). Not sure what to do from here. Does anyone have any advice? Everything appears to be OK with all the lights/windows, etc....just won't turn over. Battery is reading 11.7v per my meter and no rust on terminals. All was fine until I changed that multi-functional switch lever. Thank you.

 

Lets start all over!
Taking power off by removing battery cables does nothing for a Pats issue.
A. The battery is now too low at 11.7 volts. Get it fully charged up.
B. Will the Theft lamp flash a two digit code a few minutes after the ignition key is set to RUN only, no attempt to crank, battery charged?
Do this and report the results..

 

That LED on the dash sounds like an aftermarket security system. No way to troubleshoot that over the Internet.

 

I tried jumping it last night - didn't work. Theft light goes out as soon as I attempt to crank. Leaving the key to the on position without cranking makes the theft light go out (no 2 digit code). I let it set in the on position several minutes waiting for one to pop up.
The Ford dealer close to me doesn't like to deal with vehicles over 15 yrs old because of a parts warranty issue. They can trouble shoot, but if it needs parts and they aren't available, they'd have to go thru other sources, and they can't warranty those parts. I don't mind paying the dealer 180 bucks to troubleshoot (plus tow charges). I realize they have the knowledge/experience and tools I don't have. I'm just trying to avoid it of course so I can use that money on new shocks and front end alignment (next on the list). The last time I had to go to a dealer for a problem I couldn't fix on a vehicle was in 1990 for my 1988 chevy celebrity (and it ended up being a problem that was dealt with by a recall - no charge). Any help/advice is appreciated.

 

GLC - thanks for the info. I was wondering about that since I've not read anything about it on any of the threads.

 

That means PATS is happy and is NOT your issue.

What glc said. Many aftermarket security systems include an add-on starter interrupt. You will need to dig in under the dash to see what has been added on to see if identification can be made.

 

Yeah, I understand now that it's not a PATs issue. Since there's no visual signs of obvious loose wires or anything else, I think you guys may be on to something....that additional red blinking LED bulb security thing...and if so, wow...not even sure what to look for. I'd like to get rid of that thing all-together. but, it gives me something to shoot for this weekend. Thanks again to you all.

 

Just an update - I ended up having it towed to a mechanic a few miles away. It WAS that after-market security system that was causing the issue. I guess I must have triggered something that made it think it was being stolen. Truck is back on the road. :-) Thanks to all.
Roger

 

Hi Hoosier- what exactly did the mechanic find that was faulty with the aftermarket alarm? Did he reset the aftermarket alarm system somehow? Find a messed up wire? Or remove it altogether?
thanks-

 

We had both decided that it was probably the security system since GLC (above) pointed out that it was after-market. So I asked him to remove it (which he did). I don't have a key fob and didn't want to get into this situation again. Been working fine since having it taken out. :-)