what do you think about the amount of oil in the front half of the valley? that was there before I took the intake out. as was the coolant in the back half. where should I replace? I re-read this thread and didn't see it, but I may have missed it.

I am tempted to just buy a new knock sensor, so I don't have to deal with it, the insulation felt crunchy

well, if it is the intake manifold gasket, at least I will be replacing it

I am seriously tempted to tow it to a shop now with my pile of parts and be like can you just put this back together (after I do the hose mod)

do you think it is definitely intake manifold related? or do I have a hole in my head somewhere? I would think not the head, jsut because of where this is @?

I migth jsut buy a new knock sensor and a new aftermarket intake... at this point, it's only a couple hundred more........

also, what do you guys recommend for cleaning this? this stuff is caked on there

 

Not sure where the oil came from but it doesn't look like you have a valve cover leak. Nothing is wrong with your cylinder heads.

If you buy an aftermarket intake you won't be able to use the gaskets you bought, aftermarket intakes use different gaskets.

I would take a good look at the bottom of your intake and make sure it doesn't have any cracks in it anywhere. Specifically around the coolant ports.

For cleaning, cover the cylinder head ports or plug them, shop vac out the fluids from the valley, then use something like brake cleaner to clean everything up. Then go back and use a razor blade on the heads so the new intake gaskets have a clean and even surface to seal against.

When installing the intake make sure to follow the proper torque pattern and specs.

https://www.jegs.com/InstallationIns...26-615-188.PDF

 

yeah, I know I wont be able to use the new gaskets I got if I go with a non-oem manifold

looking @ the Dorman or others right now -- have a thread on here about it --- also slightly looking @ a 1999 aluminum manifold, but not sure if that is just the upper, using a still plastic bottom -- and all the ones I have seen look pretty trashed -- new plastic would just be easier

I am getting a new knock sensor, have another thread here on that too -- I had previous issues with Bosch plugs in all my Fords, but apparently the knock sensor is Bosch as OEM on this truck and supposed to be good

 

The aluminum 99 P.I. manifold did come with a plastic lower.

I personally prefer the factory gasket style over the aftermarket but if you want a new intake you have no choice. Dorman is the only brand I've seen recommended.

Bosch is factory for the knock sensor and is the only brand I would use. MotorCraft is the only recommenced plug for Fords but many of the factory parts are Bosch.

 

Hmmmmm. Than what is the aluminum lower I have seen? Can it be used with the aluminum upper?

what is the PI?

 

Dorman makes an aluminum replacement lower and a few other companies did as well years ago. You can still buy the Dorman aluminum lower.

PI means power improved . In 99 Ford improved the cylinder head design on the 5.4's for greater air flow and increased performance. 97-98 5.4's are non-PI.

 

So I can run a factory OEM Ford alumium upper and lower?

 

There was no aluminium lower from the factory that I know of but you could use the Dorman aluminum lower on the 99 intake.

If you want a factory aluminium upper it must be from a 1999, the 97-98 aluminum intakes will not bolt up to your cylinder heads.

Unless you can find one at a junk yard for a decent price your probably better off buying a new intake. Usually when one pops up for sale the owner knows its rare/desirable and asks way too much for it.

 

Hmmmmm.... ok. Yeah, I know it has to be from the 99, as that was the PI and prior was not.

I swear I just saw the 99 on ebay for $88.... how can I visually tell if it is the 99 with pi in case the seller is not correct?

 

PI ports are squared, non-PI is round.

One difference I forgot to mention about the 1999 intake is the heater core hose is on the back of the intake instead of the front.

 

Also the Dorman aluminium lower is $160 on rockauto so don't forget to figure that into the cost.

I see the intake on ebay and it does look correct but it is missing the lower intake. Also you can see that the heater pipe on the back passenger side is bent so that will need to be replaced.

The pipe can be purchased new and is pressed into the intake.

 

Ugh.... ok I am going to look for another aluminum one, but not too hard. I may just order a plastic


how would I press out that tube and then assure it won't leak? what would I do about that line? I assume just add a fitting in there and some hose clamps? also, how bad is that tube? A lot can be slightly bent back to normal without having problems

 

I would rather have the aluminium intake but you will save money going with the full composite. If you are keeping that truck for a long time then I'd say go for the aluminium but if not don't waste the money.

The bent tube is really thin metal so it can be bent easily. That tube looks like someone already bent it a few times. If you look at where its pressed into the intake you can see it's starting to crease.




When I replaced that tube on my truck I used a small wrench that barely fit around the tube to carefully tap and press it into the intake. I wouldn't risk using the one on that intake because if it leaks the intake has to come back off to fix it.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...414628&jsn=478

As far as the heater hoses, you will still have the heater core return running under the intake but the other heater hose that is connected to the front crossover on your intake will have to be trimmed back and connected to the pipe on the back of the aluminium intake.

 

So how would I go about pressing that old tube out and then pressing a new one in, and being sure that it was sealed?

 

To remove the old tube I basically just ripped it out with pliers. It was broken off inside the intake on mine.

To press in the new tube I used a wrench that fit around the tube but would not fit over the ridge on the tube.

I carefully tapped on the wrench until the ridge around the tube was flush against the intake.

There is not really a way to check it for leaks before installing it but if you press it in all the way it won't leak.