What does it mean if when doing the self test I only get a light after holding "off" and turn on the ign.? Pressing the on, resume, set etc. I get no cruise light. I tried changing out the servo but that didn't fix it. The voltage an resistance tests all work like they should so the buttons are OK.

Anyone able to help me????
Thanks
Fred V.

 

Fred,
Power is supplied through the master cylinder switch.
Either the fuse is blown or the switch is faulty or both.
Good luck.

 

Master cyl switch is fine; been replaced and I jumpered it and the test results were the same.
All advice here tells what's wrong if certain flashes occur but what if no lights come on when pressing ON, Resume, etc.?

I've read all the posts on several threads and tested everything I can find. The switches all work according to the pin out tests on the servo plug.

Any other thoughts?
Fred V

 

Your missing something.
If you did all the testing, I can't offer anything more.
If you can't turn the system on, you can't do the testing from the steering wheel switches.
This is why you can't advance the testing sequence.
Power comes through the master cylinder switch as the first thing needed.
The brake pedal switch is a trip off (inhibit) signal to the system by applying 12 volts.
Fluid pressure opens 12 volts through the MC switch.
Both are used to insure the CC de-activates when the brakes are applied so the CC cannot run away with the driver..
Good luck.

 

Thanks for your assistance. I did these electrical tests and they all were as they should be. That means I'm getting 12V to turn it on and 12V to kick it off with brake pedal. That tells me the master cyl. circuit is working. Every once in awhile the CC will work. The ABS light is on but I haven't found any connection between the 2 and the CC worked for a year with the ABS light on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by projectSHO89 View Post
Verify following fuses are supplying power:
BJB F7 (if horn works, fuse is good)
CJB F13
CJB F15
CJB F5

Well, you'll need to make voltage and/or resistance checks at the servo connector to see if the servo is getting the proper inputs.

Disconnect connector from servo. Note that pins 1, 2, & 8 are unused. Use them to get oriented.

Verify resistance from connector pin 10 to ground is zero.
Verify resistance from connector pin 4 to ground is zero.
With ignition switch OFF, verify battery voltage at connector pin 9.
Apply brake pedal, verify battery voltage at connector pin 4.
With ignition switch RUN, verify battery voltage at connector pin 7.
Check for battery voltage at pin 5 when pressing the ON switch on steering wheel.

Test steering wheel switches as follows:

Set meter to read up to 10K ohms.
Connect meter leads between servo connector pin 5 and pin 6.
Press named switch and check for resistance, +/- 10% of value.
OFF - 0 ohms
SET - 680 ohms
Resume - 2200 ohms
Coast - 120 ohms

Will a servo from a Ford van with the same engine work in the F150? I got one and it worked one time. I turned it off and it wouldn't come back on.
Fred V

 

Here is a side note; if the CC works 'cold' running then fails after the engine compartment heats up, the usual cause is a master cylinder switch that has operated to 'open' circuit due to fluid pressure increase from a rise in temperature.
Brake fluid expands with temperature rise.
Likely caused by an after market pressure switch not made to Ford specs.
This can fool you if worked on when cold.
As said already, if you cannot get by the first on/off switch operation nothing else in the switch testing sequence will proceed.
Therefore there will be no diagnostic code flashed.
The reason is there is no power to the system for it to even offer a diagnostic result..
Good luck.

 

Thanks again for your help. I understand what you are saying and I will do another jumper wire test at the MC switch. I have continuity in the cable to the switch (Ford in stalled) but I'll jumper it at the other end at the harness just to be sure.
Fred V