Helppp! Crank but no/sometimes starts!
FWIW; I just recently read about someone having a similar problem on another forum and changing out the cluster of gauges fixed it for him. Not saying it's the same problem; just adding to your information.
I'm having a starting problem too but mine is fuel related which is why I was looking for a solution in the first place and why I clicked into this thread.
I'm having a starting problem too but mine is fuel related which is why I was looking for a solution in the first place and why I clicked into this thread.
2001 f-150 has the Tritan 4.6 v8. No idea on codes.
Ford can't figure out wtf is wrong, my truck sometimes starts, usually just turns over and doesn't start. It'll also start and die in a second. I'm 99.9% sure it's the stupid PATS crap but they swear up and down its not.... I'm at a loss. The GEM module and fuse box were replaced. They want to replace the cluster but never have I heard of that causing a vehicle to not start.... I have ordered a new PATS transceiver this started after I locked and unlocked my doors. My electric locks don't work unfortunately.. If I can figure out how I will post a video better showing. Or at least a link. https://www.instagram.com/p/BLm9mtfANQn/
HELP! Please!
Ford can't figure out wtf is wrong, my truck sometimes starts, usually just turns over and doesn't start. It'll also start and die in a second. I'm 99.9% sure it's the stupid PATS crap but they swear up and down its not.... I'm at a loss. The GEM module and fuse box were replaced. They want to replace the cluster but never have I heard of that causing a vehicle to not start.... I have ordered a new PATS transceiver this started after I locked and unlocked my doors. My electric locks don't work unfortunately.. If I can figure out how I will post a video better showing. Or at least a link. https://www.instagram.com/p/BLm9mtfANQn/
HELP! Please!
Someone thinks it's the PCM it was jimmy rigged to keep the cluster on after first start so it'll start every time. So could be that. But still never heard of a cluster causing a truck to not start/sometimes start
Some how your not listening after coming here to get help for your problem.
IF THE Theft Lamp flashes, there is a code to be seen off the cluster if you access the diagnostics. Tell them do do that when the lamp flashes.
It does not require a Scanner or any other tool.
There is a Button bottom center of the speedo that is used to access the diagnostics.
.
OR..... turn key on and let set for a couple minutes when the lamp flashes.
Report the two digit number the code flashes off the Theft lamp.
.
Once in that full diagnostic mode, step through the readings to the code point and look at the mileage readout for the code.
Report what it says.
PATS, the Dash and the PCM are married together via programming and cannot be separated in any way or a no start occurs as it was designed to do otherwise PATS would be useless.
************************************************** ********
If there is jury rigging, it may be the problem or causing confusion trying to sort this out.
AGAIN, if the truck starts even if it stalls, it's not the PATS (in a non modified) truck..
PATS is 'done' with the control of the engine starting once starting has occurred, even is if stalls after that.
The two are 'separate' functions.
************************************************** ********
Once the motor starts then stalls it may be a separate issue with the IAC.
Two or more troubles present at the same time causes confusion and takes a good tech to realize it.
I am a thousand miles away so some one has to do the work and know what they are doing.
Your getting more help here than you got anywhere else so far.
Until these things are looked at we can't help any farther and guessing and hoping is not a valid repair methods. It costs money for no fix.
If you feel insult by my reply I will no longer try to help you.
And please, don't come back with your sorry 'i'm' upset because the doesn't fly here. I'm not the one having the bad day with your truck.
Good luck.
IF THE Theft Lamp flashes, there is a code to be seen off the cluster if you access the diagnostics. Tell them do do that when the lamp flashes.
It does not require a Scanner or any other tool.
There is a Button bottom center of the speedo that is used to access the diagnostics.
.
OR..... turn key on and let set for a couple minutes when the lamp flashes.
Report the two digit number the code flashes off the Theft lamp.
.
Once in that full diagnostic mode, step through the readings to the code point and look at the mileage readout for the code.
Report what it says.
PATS, the Dash and the PCM are married together via programming and cannot be separated in any way or a no start occurs as it was designed to do otherwise PATS would be useless.
************************************************** ********
If there is jury rigging, it may be the problem or causing confusion trying to sort this out.
AGAIN, if the truck starts even if it stalls, it's not the PATS (in a non modified) truck..
PATS is 'done' with the control of the engine starting once starting has occurred, even is if stalls after that.
The two are 'separate' functions.
************************************************** ********
Once the motor starts then stalls it may be a separate issue with the IAC.
Two or more troubles present at the same time causes confusion and takes a good tech to realize it.
I am a thousand miles away so some one has to do the work and know what they are doing.
Your getting more help here than you got anywhere else so far.
Until these things are looked at we can't help any farther and guessing and hoping is not a valid repair methods. It costs money for no fix.
If you feel insult by my reply I will no longer try to help you.
And please, don't come back with your sorry 'i'm' upset because the doesn't fly here. I'm not the one having the bad day with your truck.
Good luck.
Some how your not listening after coming here to get help for your problem.
IF THE Theft Lamp flashes, there is a code to be seen off the cluster if you access the diagnostics. Tell them do do that when the lamp flashes.
It does not require a Scanner or any other tool.
There is a Button bottom center of the speedo that is used to access the diagnostics.
.
OR..... turn key on and let set for a couple minutes when the lamp flashes.
Report the two digit number the code flashes off the Theft lamp.
.
Once in that full diagnostic mode, step through the readings to the code point and look at the mileage readout for the code.
Report what it says.
PATS, the Dash and the PCM are married together via programming and cannot be separated in any way or a no start occurs as it was designed to do otherwise PATS would be useless.
************************************************** ********
If there is jury rigging, it may be the problem or causing confusion trying to sort this out.
AGAIN, if the truck starts even if it stalls, it's not the PATS (in a non modified) truck..
PATS is 'done' with the control of the engine starting once starting has occurred, even is if stalls after that.
The two are 'separate' functions.
************************************************** ********
Once the motor starts then stalls it may be a separate issue with the IAC.
Two or more troubles present at the same time causes confusion and takes a good tech to realize it.
I am a thousand miles away so some one has to do the work and know what they are doing.
Your getting more help here than you got anywhere else so far.
Until these things are looked at we can't help any farther and guessing and hoping is not a valid repair methods. It costs money for no fix.
If you feel insult by my reply I will no longer try to help you.
And please, don't come back with your sorry 'i'm' upset because the doesn't fly here. I'm not the one having the bad day with your truck.
Good luck.
IF THE Theft Lamp flashes, there is a code to be seen off the cluster if you access the diagnostics. Tell them do do that when the lamp flashes.
It does not require a Scanner or any other tool.
There is a Button bottom center of the speedo that is used to access the diagnostics.
.
OR..... turn key on and let set for a couple minutes when the lamp flashes.
Report the two digit number the code flashes off the Theft lamp.
.
Once in that full diagnostic mode, step through the readings to the code point and look at the mileage readout for the code.
Report what it says.
PATS, the Dash and the PCM are married together via programming and cannot be separated in any way or a no start occurs as it was designed to do otherwise PATS would be useless.
************************************************** ********
If there is jury rigging, it may be the problem or causing confusion trying to sort this out.
AGAIN, if the truck starts even if it stalls, it's not the PATS (in a non modified) truck..
PATS is 'done' with the control of the engine starting once starting has occurred, even is if stalls after that.
The two are 'separate' functions.
************************************************** ********
Once the motor starts then stalls it may be a separate issue with the IAC.
Two or more troubles present at the same time causes confusion and takes a good tech to realize it.
I am a thousand miles away so some one has to do the work and know what they are doing.
Your getting more help here than you got anywhere else so far.
Until these things are looked at we can't help any farther and guessing and hoping is not a valid repair methods. It costs money for no fix.
If you feel insult by my reply I will no longer try to help you.
And please, don't come back with your sorry 'i'm' upset because the doesn't fly here. I'm not the one having the bad day with your truck.
Good luck.
It was rigged after the problem occurred and it sat at ford for a month.
It runs and drives now. If I leave the switch on it starts every time. First start still takes a few minutes.
But thanks for the opinion.
Also it's a completely modified truck. I don't know if they put an aftermarket anti theft in it. But it's entirely possible.
Last edited by JodenaMay; Oct 30, 2016 at 11:40 PM.
If you only see a PATS trouble with one key and the code is 1-3 it's a faulty key.
The dash code would be 9600 or OBDII code B1600. They all mean the same thing from different detection sources.
On the hard start, you need to see how much fuel pressure is built on the first key on cycle.
Use a pressure gauge to find out.
There should be at least 15 to 25 psi in the fuel rails for starting.
The key to run initially powers the computer and operates the pump relay from a timer in the computer, then drops out.
Then as the crank comes up to rpm, the pump is turned on again and continues to build pressure to allow the regulator to offer about 38 psi quite quickly.
Why is this so hard for a dealer tech to understand if they are trained?
As for other mods causing trouble, there is no way we can tell you about that.
A dealer is not responsible for aftermarket mods and will charge for the time to look at it.
The old story goes like this, when you play, you pay and pay extra.
Good luck.
The dash code would be 9600 or OBDII code B1600. They all mean the same thing from different detection sources.
On the hard start, you need to see how much fuel pressure is built on the first key on cycle.
Use a pressure gauge to find out.
There should be at least 15 to 25 psi in the fuel rails for starting.
The key to run initially powers the computer and operates the pump relay from a timer in the computer, then drops out.
Then as the crank comes up to rpm, the pump is turned on again and continues to build pressure to allow the regulator to offer about 38 psi quite quickly.
Why is this so hard for a dealer tech to understand if they are trained?
As for other mods causing trouble, there is no way we can tell you about that.
A dealer is not responsible for aftermarket mods and will charge for the time to look at it.
The old story goes like this, when you play, you pay and pay extra.
Good luck.
Last edited by Bluegrass; Oct 31, 2016 at 01:55 AM.
If you only see a PATS trouble with one key and the code is 1-3 it's a faulty key.
The dash code would be 9600 or OBDII code B1600. They all mean the same thing from different detection sources.
On the hard start, you need to see how much fuel pressure is built on the first key on cycle.
Use a pressure gauge to find out.
There should be at least 15 to 25 psi in the fuel rails for starting.
The key to run initially powers the computer and operates the pump relay from a timer in the computer, then drops out.
Then as the crank comes up to rpm, the pump is turned on again and continues to build pressure to allow the regulator to offer about 38 psi quite quickly.
Why is this so hard for a dealer tech to understand if they are trained?
As for other mods causing trouble, there is no way we can tell you about that.
A dealer is not responsible for aftermarket mods and will charge for the time to look at it.
The old story goes like this, when you play, you pay and pay extra.
Good luck.
The dash code would be 9600 or OBDII code B1600. They all mean the same thing from different detection sources.
On the hard start, you need to see how much fuel pressure is built on the first key on cycle.
Use a pressure gauge to find out.
There should be at least 15 to 25 psi in the fuel rails for starting.
The key to run initially powers the computer and operates the pump relay from a timer in the computer, then drops out.
Then as the crank comes up to rpm, the pump is turned on again and continues to build pressure to allow the regulator to offer about 38 psi quite quickly.
Why is this so hard for a dealer tech to understand if they are trained?
As for other mods causing trouble, there is no way we can tell you about that.
A dealer is not responsible for aftermarket mods and will charge for the time to look at it.
The old story goes like this, when you play, you pay and pay extra.
Good luck.
Idgaf anymore it runs and drives. I can't delete the thread so I removed the content! Have a good day! 😒



