Input on lifter vs rod knock sound
Input on lifter vs rod knock sound
Figured I'd post up some clips. When I replaced the valves the lifters did come out. I'm not sure if I'm looking at lifters making the sound or rod knock. Sound seems to be there when cold or hot.
Do you guys think I'm looking at lifter(s) being stuck or rod knock? As you can tell in the clips the truck has a little shake to it. You can really tell the "ticking" sound when the truck is close to the other vehicle in the drive way.
No cells on.
Thoughts?
Do you guys think I'm looking at lifter(s) being stuck or rod knock? As you can tell in the clips the truck has a little shake to it. You can really tell the "ticking" sound when the truck is close to the other vehicle in the drive way.
No cells on.
Thoughts?
Big difference between a tick and a rod knock sound.
It's in the valve train.
Use a stethoscope to locate which bank, then the approximate part of the head the noise is coming from.
Remove the cover, start the motor and see which one is causing it.
Good luck.
It's in the valve train.
Use a stethoscope to locate which bank, then the approximate part of the head the noise is coming from.
Remove the cover, start the motor and see which one is causing it.
Good luck.
Good way to help isolate if it's a rod knock, or not. And on which cylinder it's on, unplug injectors one by one. If it's a rod knock the noise will be minimized with no power stroke.
Also, camshafts are half the revolution of the crank shaft, good way to tell if it's top or bottom noise is by the speed of the noise
Also, camshafts are half the revolution of the crank shaft, good way to tell if it's top or bottom noise is by the speed of the noise
Good way to help isolate if it's a rod knock, or not. And on which cylinder it's on, unplug injectors one by one. If it's a rod knock the noise will be minimized with no power stroke.
Also, camshafts are half the revolution of the crank shaft, good way to tell if it's top or bottom noise is by the speed of the noise
Also, camshafts are half the revolution of the crank shaft, good way to tell if it's top or bottom noise is by the speed of the noise
The sounds seems to stick with RPMs.
Can I unplug the injectors one by one while the engine is running or do I need to shut it down before? Don't want to cause more harm then good lol
Unplug while it's idling. Id only have one unplugged at a time. You'll set some circuit faults for the CEL, but no harm.
I know the noise is RPM dependent, but if it's half the frequency of the actual RPM it's camshaft/valve train issue
I know the noise is RPM dependent, but if it's half the frequency of the actual RPM it's camshaft/valve train issue
Here is pic of the cleaned up pistons before I put it all together. I cleaned the pistons up the best I could.
http://www.f150forum.com/g/picture/5306240
you can see #7 has a dimple closer to the outside of the piston as well as some scaring on the outer edge. #8 is the scaring on the outter wall of the piston.
The sound and the pics lead everyone on that page to think the wrist pin, rod and or bearing, piston underneath more than likely got damaged.
The sound and the pics lead everyone on that page to think the wrist pin, rod and or bearing, piston underneath more than likely got damaged.
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Yes it. The 4 exhaust valves were toast. I replaced all 8 valves and seals. Lifters came out and I put them back in, did not replace them. I checked the valve guides and they appeared to have no cracks. Head had a few marks and I smoothed those parts out as well.
The truck drives fine when going down the road but once you come to a stop it has some vibration and of course the sound in the clips posted.
I had a talon that was tuned by a shop and next day started to knock. While driving the sound got really bad and within a few minutes was not derivable. I'm not ruling the bottom end out as many of you have pointed the fingers to it.
I will pull the injector wires one by one today and see what happens.
Thanks,
Only thin I notice is when I gradually increase the rpms from say 750 to 1500 right around 1000-1200 the sound speeds up almost as if it's trying to catch up and then settles down again. Truck seems to drive normal just the sound is there and kind of a rough idle and acts like it's going to shut off when coming to a stop.
I ran some octane booster incase bad gas was still in the used intake I had to buy. Also ran some valve cleaner with seafoam treatment. Ran the seafoam through the oil and gas as well as intake.
Just a shot in the dark but could something in the front cat cause that noise. Maybe just a coincident? I did remove the piping all the way to fix some spots from where the rear cats were removed. Just a thought.
A better way to describe the sound is like a heat shield rattle...very similar to it.
You won't be able to compress the "lifters" with your fingers and the engine may run rough for a few minutes after they have been out. On my Expedition that ate the helicoil, it ran rough as the lash adjusters took time to pump up, but it eventually smoothed out. Here is the damaged piston. It ran perfect when I put it back together.
If that's a rod knock, it's guaranteed to have shavings in the oil. See if the oil on the dipstick looks like a metallic paint job.
If that's a rod knock, it's guaranteed to have shavings in the oil. See if the oil on the dipstick looks like a metallic paint job.




