F150 sometimes starts, sometimes doesn't
#1
F150 sometimes starts, sometimes doesn't
Help! New guy here. Ford F150, 5.4 v8.
Starting to get really frustrated.
Getting a single click when I turn the key, but no start, no crank.
Replaced the starter and firewall-mounted solenoid. Thought I'd fixed it, drove it a few days, all is great. This morning it failed to start. I clicked it 15+ times, no luck. I walked away, came back and it started right up 10 min later.
Battery appears strong, lights work, radio, AC, everything. I do not have a voltage tester, and have not had the battery tested yet. I ordered a new positive cable and will put that on as soon as I get it (much cheaper online than it is local).
Starting to get really frustrated.
Getting a single click when I turn the key, but no start, no crank.
Replaced the starter and firewall-mounted solenoid. Thought I'd fixed it, drove it a few days, all is great. This morning it failed to start. I clicked it 15+ times, no luck. I walked away, came back and it started right up 10 min later.
Battery appears strong, lights work, radio, AC, everything. I do not have a voltage tester, and have not had the battery tested yet. I ordered a new positive cable and will put that on as soon as I get it (much cheaper online than it is local).
#2
If the dash lights or the interior lights goes dim or out, it tells you there is a basic loss of 'circuit continuity' off the battery or the battery has an open inter cell connector.
.
If the lights and dash stay full bright, it tells you a cable or connection to the starter is going open. Lights and other functions will be unaffected.
Either way it's an unreliable cable or connection ground or positive side.
You should have checked this out before replacing anything.
Good luck.
.
If the lights and dash stay full bright, it tells you a cable or connection to the starter is going open. Lights and other functions will be unaffected.
Either way it's an unreliable cable or connection ground or positive side.
You should have checked this out before replacing anything.
Good luck.
#3
#4
If the dash lights or the interior lights goes dim or out, it tells you there is a basic loss of 'circuit continuity' off the battery or the battery has an open inter cell connector.
.
If the lights and dash stay full bright, it tells you a cable or connection to the starter is going open. Lights and other functions will be unaffected.
Either way it's an unreliable cable or connection ground or positive side.
You should have checked this out before replacing anything.
Good luck.
.
If the lights and dash stay full bright, it tells you a cable or connection to the starter is going open. Lights and other functions will be unaffected.
Either way it's an unreliable cable or connection ground or positive side.
You should have checked this out before replacing anything.
Good luck.
When I try to start it, the headlights stay on. The dash lights, AC, radio, etc all go off when I attempt to start it. At that point it clicks once. When I turn the switch back, everything goes back on. You're suggesting that means it's the battery? Or a cable from it? Aren't the lights supposed to go dim while it attempts to start?
#5
Check the main starter wire for corrosion they corrode internally. Check and recheck all connection. From personnel experience like you I have tossed a few good ford starters. Fact is I can never remember the starter being the problem. Its always either the fire wall relay or a loose corroded wire. Ford builds pretty good starters. They last forever most of the time.
#6
I ended up having a local mechanic take a look at it. He said 2 things: One is the battery terminal was painted and was not making good contact with the cable, and it was corroded. The other was that the transmission linkage was loose--so it may have been in gear and reading it as in gear even if it was in park.
All I know is that I picked it up from him a couple days ago and it hasn't failed to start....yet. We'll see, going forward. In any event, if that fixed it, it's the best $40 labor I ever spent.
All I know is that I picked it up from him a couple days ago and it hasn't failed to start....yet. We'll see, going forward. In any event, if that fixed it, it's the best $40 labor I ever spent.
#7
Check the main starter wire for corrosion they corrode internally. Check and recheck all connection. From personnel experience like you I have tossed a few good ford starters. Fact is I can never remember the starter being the problem. Its always either the fire wall relay or a loose corroded wire. Ford builds pretty good starters. They last forever most of the time.
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#8
If the dash lights go out there is a poor connection or ground.
The voltage drops across that poor connection.
If you have Pats, that system become inoperative as well.
You can end up with two issues at the same time.
The intermittent from the poor connection is current and or vibration sensitive.
Also the starter can't draw it's high current across such a fault.
Good luck.
The voltage drops across that poor connection.
If you have Pats, that system become inoperative as well.
You can end up with two issues at the same time.
The intermittent from the poor connection is current and or vibration sensitive.
Also the starter can't draw it's high current across such a fault.
Good luck.
#10
I don't have a voltmeter, and don't know how to use one. For that reason I haven't been able to check the cable connections. But I'm ready to get one and learn.
I took it into a mechanic a couple days ago. The mechanic put new ends on the battery cables, but told me that was the issue. For a couple of days it started, all was well.
Today I had an issue of it making a high-pitched screetching sound when I tried to start it. I tried it 4-5 times and finally it turned over. Since I was in town today, I took it to a NAPA and had them run the diagnostic on the battery and charging system. Everything checked out good.
Anyone know if a bad connection would result in that? Is it maybe a bad spot on the starter not making good connection to turn the motor over?
#11
#12
If I had a water pump put in, and with it I believe the mechanic put on a new belt and tensioner....could that do it?
#14