So my windows have been getting slower and slower over the years. It was to the point where it'd stop and I'd have to go back up a bit, then down. I lubed up the tracks inside the door, and it helped a little, but not really. I thought it might be alignment of the rubber window track and messed around with it- no help.

Turns out, the window run was just worn out. There was no felt left in the window channel in places and the glass was dragging on smooth rubber. One spot was really bad, and that's probably where it'd come to a stop. I figured I was slowly destroying my window motors and regulators by trying to force the windows to move.

So I purchased two new "window runs" which is the rubber channel the window goes up and down in.

To install, pull the door panel, liner and speaker. Pull the inner window wipe. Pull the side mirror. Carefully pull the outer lower molding starting at the front (mirror has to come off to get this piece off). Watch the plastic piece in back as you are pulling it out, it clips into the door metal.

Grab the window run and start pulling it loose up top. Next, remove the two bolts holding the window run. Reach in the door and pull the run away from the front of the window. Slide the window forward in the door. You can now remove the rear portion of the window run. It has to down down first to unlock a clip. You'll see the clip on the new run. It'll be a tight fit getting the bracket part out, just muscle it a bit. Now slide the window all the way rearward in the door and pull the front portion of the run. It's not clipped to anything.

Clean up the metal under the rubber and wax it, now is the only time you'll have the chance.

To install, just do it in reverse. It's much easier than I thought it would be since the window will move forward and backwards in the door once the track is loose.

The window now functions like it did when the truck was brand new. Even has the nice swish sound from sliding over the new felt.

Driver's Side: 3L3Z-1521537-AA
Passenger Side: 3L3Z-1521536-AA

I got one for $65 shipped and one for $75 shipped on Ebay.

 

BTW, I only did the passenger side last night- I could snap some pics while doing the drivers side if anyone is confused with the written description. It's really not too hateful though, especially if you've been in the door before and know how to yank all the panels quickly.

 

Good write up! If you will add some pics, that will assist anyone wanting to do the chore.

 

That someone is me who needs to figure out how to get the door panel off without destroying it in the process.

 

subscribed anticipating pictures. Thank you.

DN

 

That's cake.

On a 2000, you pry the cup out from behind the door handle. There is a notch on the front lower side, pry there- it'll pop off no problem.

Next grab the power window/lock/mirror piece at the front and lift up. Slide it forward a bit to get it loose and undo the wiring.

Two screws are now exposed- one in the door handle area and one in the area of the switches. Take those out.

Grab the vertical trim piece at the back of the door and pull it off. I do the top first. Next, just lift the door panel straight up and it comes off. Unhook the light if you have one and it's off.



I'll get pics next time. I'm trying to find a non-rusted out door to replace my drivers side door first, but I may stick this track in anyways seeing as how easy it is.

Anyone know of a good drivers side amazon green door for sale? SU paint code. Found some on CL in NC, but that's a bit far to deal with someone on Craigslist. I got lucky and found a passenger side supercab door a month ago, but the front doors were trash.