This is is a textbook example of when the proper diagnostic procedure is a volt drop test. In minutes the problem can be pinpointed. Turning the engine with the starter disengaged does nothing, starter pinion is not in the flywheel. Battery should be charged prior to any testing. Even Wal Mart will conductance test a battery, much more revealing than open circuit volts or the old load test. Problem from the description will be bad battery ( check first in any electrical repair), bad start relay, poor connection, internally corroded cable ( resistance test-ohms- will test ok if one strand is conductive) test under load for true measure of resistance, last suspect is starter. On occasion I have found bad ground connection between starter and mount as a result of corrosion. Again volt drop test will show.

 

another 50cm of snow today, weather hasn't been fit to do anything to it except for some trial and error on my part.
All Ive figured out is that when I turn truck off, if I start it again in driveway while parked, in a sense clearing, cycling the starter of snow or moisture I picked upon drive home, it goes the next day no problem no matter how cold it is that night.
If I don't do this, truck clicks the next morning.
There is moisture/snow getting in somewhere and freezing, found a couple other starter freezing threads about it when i searched google

 

I had that, the large gauge battery cable that connects to the starter corrodes badly (the corrosion eats away at where the wire is crimped to the terminal lug) I was able to hack it off and replace it with a lug I found at Autozone or Advance Auto (can't remember which). The cable assembly is stupid expensive and a dealer only item.

 

Rock auto carrys the starter wire.