I am pretty familiar with spark plug changes on Hondas and Toyota cars, which are incredibly easy, but want to ask how difficult it is on the F150 V4.6 engine.

I am aware there are horror stories with plugs breaking on post-2003 engines and very difficult access with the V5.4 engine, so I am wondering if someone here can compare and contrast the problems with an earlier model V4.6. Is Motorcraft still the way to go?

I want to get all my ducks in a row since I am 15 miles from any mechanic.. any problems out here would be a windfall for the towing company.

 

Just a straight forward change. Motorcraft.

 

Straightforward, same as any 2 valve 4.6 or 5.4 ever built, just note that they are down inside a well so you will need a holding socket and appropriate extensions. You may get better access if you lift the fuel rail. Do not use antiseize and torque them to 28 ft/lb. Use dielectric grease in the cop boots and don't overtighten the cop screws, they are supposed to feel loose as they float on bushings.

 

1-3/8" socket,
3-3" 3/8"extentions
3-3/8"swivels, attach to extensions and wrap the last swivel and extention connections with a little electrical tape... (Gets right cussy if they seperate while on cylinder 4 & 8)
1-1/4" drive socket
1-1/4" drive 3" ext
1-10mm socket(for COP's)
1-spark plug socket, can't exactly remember the size, 7/8's I belive..? Could be wrong.
1-3oz tube permatex dielectric tune up grease, (ignition coils and boots... Will save you $100's
In the long run.
1-can CRC technician grade electrical contact cleaner. (Might as well spruce up those COP's while you've got them out.
Take COP's off an pull the boots, spray the tab on the COP's with the cleaner, while that's sitting, coat inside of ignition coil boots with the dielectric grease, set that aside... Take air hose BEFORE YOU PULL THE PLUGS, and blow out ignition boot valleys for trash, dirt etc. don't want that sh*t in your heads. Now take a small screw driver and clean the COP tabs where the spring was attached nice and clean and shines, free of dirt and corrosion. Gently twist back on the spring, and slide on the boot. Do all 8 the same way. Now switch out all the plugs, and reassemble your newly cleaned COP's, and enjoy your truck like you just bought it.... 😎😉 it's tedious, but anyone can do it as long as your careful on the back 2 cylinders... You won't see them, but the #3,4,6,&8 COP's have small spacers that sit atop the spot where the bolt that holds them to the head goes through, if the bolt gets tight and the COP is still loose, find the spacer, or you'll be breaking out the drill bits and easy outs... (Learned the hard way)...
Hope I helped more than confused.... Good luck buddy and let us know how it turns out... And like ^^^^^ he said... Never use anything other than MOTORCRAFT on these engines... Nothing will out perform nor outlast a motorcraft on the 4.6 2v's... MSD, accel, granatelli.... Nothing... May the force be with ya bud...

 

The COP bolt is 7mm, not 10mm. The plug socket is 5/8", not 7/8".

 

Thanks all... I will wait until next Saturday since I need to order the plugs.

The Haynes manual says 84-168 inch-pounds (7 to 14 ft lbs) on 2002 and earlier models... if this sounds off, let me know as I'd like to get those torqued correctly.

Ford Parts with VIN search (which I assume would be the most accurate part finder short of a service manual) recommends only Motorcraft SP-413 (AGSF32N) and no platinums. Since that's nickel it does sound like anti-seize is not to be used.

 

As I said, torque them to 28 ft/lb. The factory specs are too low and can lead to self-loosening and blowout, taking the threads in the head with them. Reference:

http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/ FAQ 51 and 52.

You do want platinums, Motorcraft platinums have nickel-plated threads. That would be the SP493. Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 3L1E12405AA, AGSF32PM, AGSF32PMF4, AGSF32PMF6. $2.49 each from rockauto.com.

 

I didn't need any universals when I changed plugs in my 2002 5.4. I think that is what he means by swivels. I did have to pull up the fuel rail on the driver's side.

 

Thanks all. I took a quick look today at the engine block and frankly I could not even find the spark plugs. It looks nothing like a Nissan/Toyota/Honda engine block. It seems they've got them pretty well hidden underneath the fuel rail, the air intake, and some kind of metal plate. I guess accessibility is not Ford's strong suit. Anyway I'll read through the Haynes manual and look at some YouTube videos and prepare myself.

 

the 4.6 is easy. I have too move the rail on 5.4's but my 4.6 All you gotta to is remove the coils and air cleaner..

 

removing the coils will be the worst part for a newbie