I want to make my truck louder?
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Member
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Houston
Before you cut it (it WON'T unscrew lol), purchase an exhaust adapter sleeve. They're about 3-5 bucks. Make sure it's 2.5" inside diameter (ID) on each side. You'll need two 2.5" muffler clamps as well.
There's more than one way to do this. You may have to jack the truck up relatively high in back to maneuver the tailpipe and muffler out of there after you cut it. That's if you want to keep that in one piece. Please use jack stands.... or you may never get to hear it.
There's more than one way to do this. You may have to jack the truck up relatively high in back to maneuver the tailpipe and muffler out of there after you cut it. That's if you want to keep that in one piece. Please use jack stands.... or you may never get to hear it.
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Springfield, MO
My 2002 4.6L had the cut where jbrew said, going up to a 3 in pipe that split into fake duals. I bought it that way but thought it sounded good. It wasn't loud at idle so I wasn't pissing off my neighbors, and it had a good bass note at all rpms. Wasn't noticeably loud in the cab at any speed either.
In the past when I've removed exhaust to drop the transmission, I've used a torch to heat up the joint just forward of the cut and pull the two pieces apart. It can be a lot of work though.
Whether you pull apart, or cut and buy a sleeve, most muffler shops will weld it back for you cheap as long as that's all it needs to go back together. Last time I did it I think they charged me $10.
In the past when I've removed exhaust to drop the transmission, I've used a torch to heat up the joint just forward of the cut and pull the two pieces apart. It can be a lot of work though.
Whether you pull apart, or cut and buy a sleeve, most muffler shops will weld it back for you cheap as long as that's all it needs to go back together. Last time I did it I think they charged me $10.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Houston
My 2002 4.6L had the cut where jbrew said, going up to a 3 in pipe that split into fake duals. I bought it that way but thought it sounded good. It wasn't loud at idle so I wasn't pissing off my neighbors, and it had a good bass note at all rpms. Wasn't noticeably loud in the cab at any speed either.
In the past when I've removed exhaust to drop the transmission, I've used a torch to heat up the joint just forward of the cut and pull the two pieces apart. It can be a lot of work though.
Whether you pull apart, or cut and buy a sleeve, most muffler shops will weld it back for you cheap as long as that's all it needs to go back together. Last time I did it I think they charged me $10.
In the past when I've removed exhaust to drop the transmission, I've used a torch to heat up the joint just forward of the cut and pull the two pieces apart. It can be a lot of work though.
Whether you pull apart, or cut and buy a sleeve, most muffler shops will weld it back for you cheap as long as that's all it needs to go back together. Last time I did it I think they charged me $10.
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 25,641
Likes: 19
From: MI
Skrimshaw, you'll need, -
Two of these, -
One of these, -
Are what's needed if you were to cut it in the place previously instructed.
__________________________
If by chance you need to cut the tailpipe behind the muffler as well, you'll need to purchase another set of the above in order to bolt the tailpipe back on.
Two of these, -
One of these, -
Are what's needed if you were to cut it in the place previously instructed.
__________________________
If by chance you need to cut the tailpipe behind the muffler as well, you'll need to purchase another set of the above in order to bolt the tailpipe back on.
Last edited by jbrew; Jul 8, 2014 at 09:07 PM. Reason: Quote feature = No Joy.
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Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Houston
Skrimshaw, you'll need, -
Two of these, -
Amazon.com: Walker (35414) 2-1/2" Standard Duty U-Bolt Exhaust Clamp: Automotive
One of these, -
Amazon.com: 2.5" OD x 2.5" ID Slip Fit Transition, 6061 Aluminum: Automotive
Are what's needed if you were to cut it in the place previously instructed.
__________________________
If by chance you need to cut the tailpipe behind the muffler as well, you'll need to purchase another set of the above in order to bolt the tailpipe back on.
Two of these, -
Amazon.com: Walker (35414) 2-1/2" Standard Duty U-Bolt Exhaust Clamp: Automotive
One of these, -
Amazon.com: 2.5" OD x 2.5" ID Slip Fit Transition, 6061 Aluminum: Automotive
Are what's needed if you were to cut it in the place previously instructed.
__________________________
If by chance you need to cut the tailpipe behind the muffler as well, you'll need to purchase another set of the above in order to bolt the tailpipe back on.
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 25,641
Likes: 19
From: MI
what if I were to cut the muffler off at the #2 in that diagram and add a fake dual exhaust for looks and so that the cab doesn't have that "drone" noise everyone says they have when you cut it right underneath the cab? would the parts in that list I had work for adding a fake dual exhaust?
here :P
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 152
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From: Springfield, MO
what if I were to cut the muffler off at the #2 in that diagram and add a fake dual exhaust for looks and so that the cab doesn't have that "drone" noise everyone says they have when you cut it right underneath the cab? would the parts in that list I had work for adding a fake dual exhaust?
If you (or a shop) weld it up correctly it should sound any different at the cut/weld than anywhere else in the system.
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Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Houston
I do want to do it myself but I dont know exactly what I would need :/ and I cant weld but I do think I found where to cut it at ...
