That probably sounds weird. It's hard to describe, when going usually 50mph and above, when I let of the gas, instead of the tach slowly going down, it like jumps down 200 rpms, and you kind of feel it. It's almost like the surge you get when you shift to low 2, but not nearly as extreme. I'm probably not describing it well, but I don't know if the truck is missing, may need new plugs, or is it something to do with fuel/air mixtures, a computer issue, or linked to my recent electrical problems. Thinking somebody must have experienced this.

 

Not quite sure what you're describing.

Just for kicks what engine we talking about? 2wd or 4x4? On your 2000?

Also what kind of electrical problems?

 

Torque converter unlocking.

 

It's the 5.4L in my 2000 4WD. I've had a battery drain issue, figured it was the gem or coming from the drivers door which was smashed in in an accident. I have to use a battery shutoff switch to avoid draining it. This torque converter unlocking, is this bad? Will it get worse? Cause damage? I'm sure it's expensive getting in there.

 

PCM relearning the convertor every time you drive because you have the kill switch on it....

 

The torque converter is SUPPOSED to unlock when you lift off the gas.

You need to fix your drain.

 

Under certain conditions a sudden lift off of throttle (by TPS detection feedback) and or brake application (brake pedal switch operation) unlocks the converter by design intent.
This has been in every automatic function since at least 1984 and electric transmission control..
The intent is the help shorten panic braking time by not letting the motor push the vehicle anymore than necessary.
During this time interval the PCM puts a timer on the lockup circuit so it will lock again if no further action is taken with the brake signal otherwise the converter locks again after a few seconds..
All this can be I conjunction with kicking off overdrive if that function is being used.
Good luck

 

I can't see how your truck would ever run 100% when you cut the power to the PCM every day. I agree with glc. You need to track down your power drain and fix it asap so you can stop cutting the power to your truck.

 

Every time you remove power from the system the computer reboots and begins system diagnostics all over again.
It zeros out fuel tables, clears any codes set and some diagnostics never have time to complete from the last reboot.
The transmission and converter is not on any learning table because they are positive acting at all times.
.
On the drain, have you eliminated the alternator as the source?
Have you removed the hood lamp and put a current sensing device in series with one of the battery leads, then remove fuses one at a time to observe the result?
The PCM normally drains about a tenth amp +/- so it does not count in the chase but only accounted for..
The GEM auto power controls, radio memory all draw background current but all are relatively small in total.
If you don't do these things you will never find the source except by some rare happenstance.
Good luck.

 

You are right, this does not seem to be a good fix. The had said they were having a hard time getting the fuses out because the drivers door doesn't open. They actually broke the radio one off, had to use a forceps and replace so I had my radio. Seemed to make sense at the time. Anyways, how does the current sensing device work? It plugs into the hood lamp? And connects to the positve battery post and it lights showing a drain? And then you pull fuses until it goes out? I did a quick search and didn't see much, will look for more. You can get these at automotive shops? Wouild like to do this once it warms up.

 

I ran the two together to close and caused confusion. Sorry bout that.
.
Pull the hood lamp so it does not add drain to the issue.
Take a 12 volt lamp socket with leads and 'size a bulb' to light bright enough to see when the drain reduces.
Connect this lamp in series with either battery lead so it lights from the drain current and goes either dim or out when the offending circuit is opened by removing the fuse feeding the circuit.
The circuit that reacts the greatest is likely the one.
ID that circuit then begin to check out the parts for damage or replacement.
Good luck