Brake controller
Well it's difficult to get a good mounting location but I have mine mounted from special electrical conduit clamps off the bottom of the dash over the hump.
It's in plain view at all times and can be manually operated.
Along with it there are two large 3 inch gauges . One for transmission temp the other for oil pressure. Have lighted white backgrounds and seen at night without difficulty. The gauges are twisted to 45 degrees to make seeing them direct on at a down glance.
Has worked out nice with no regrets.
I did not want anything on the windshield post.
Along with this is a custom built stalk mounted on the center seat frame for my Amateur radio.
Everything is visible, full clearance, seat moves fully forward and cup holder is fully usable.
Good luck.
It's in plain view at all times and can be manually operated.
Along with it there are two large 3 inch gauges . One for transmission temp the other for oil pressure. Have lighted white backgrounds and seen at night without difficulty. The gauges are twisted to 45 degrees to make seeing them direct on at a down glance.
Has worked out nice with no regrets.
I did not want anything on the windshield post.
Along with this is a custom built stalk mounted on the center seat frame for my Amateur radio.
Everything is visible, full clearance, seat moves fully forward and cup holder is fully usable.
Good luck.
Well it's difficult to get a good mounting location but I have mine mounted from special electrical conduit clamps off the bottom of the dash over the hump.
It's in plain view at all times and can be manually operated.
Along with it there are two large 3 inch gauges . One for transmission temp the other for oil pressure. Have lighted white backgrounds and seen at night without difficulty. The gauges are twisted to 45 degrees to make seeing them direct on at a down glance.
Has worked out nice with no regrets.
I did not want anything on the windshield post.
Along with this is a custom built stalk mounted on the center seat frame for my Amateur radio.
Everything is visible, full clearance, seat moves fully forward and cup holder is fully usable.
Good luck.
It's in plain view at all times and can be manually operated.
Along with it there are two large 3 inch gauges . One for transmission temp the other for oil pressure. Have lighted white backgrounds and seen at night without difficulty. The gauges are twisted to 45 degrees to make seeing them direct on at a down glance.
Has worked out nice with no regrets.
I did not want anything on the windshield post.
Along with this is a custom built stalk mounted on the center seat frame for my Amateur radio.
Everything is visible, full clearance, seat moves fully forward and cup holder is fully usable.
Good luck.
Yes both are electric.
The trans monitor sensor is at the output of the converter.
It reacts instantly to fluid temp changes. The gauge meters past 280 degrees.
Normal running in OD average ambient temps shows about 150 degrees.
As soon as a hill causes the converter to unlock the temp will begin to climb due to the fluid shear that goes on.
Pulling high loads uphill for any distance will run the fluid temp upward to over 220 depending on how long, how fast and what the outside temp is.
This would scare most operators until they find out it's normal.
It is always going on whether you can see it or not.
Monitoring any other locations but the lines won't show this fast reactions.
The cooling action is also as fast once the trans locks up and time to cool takes place.
I run an 8x12 fan cooled aux cooler.
It does an added function of limiting the engine bay temp after shutdown and saves the rubber fittings.
After 198,000 I have never had an intake rubber fitting failure not to say that now there could be some that are getting hard.
The fan thermostat is set to run at 190 degrees +\- that limits the engine bay temp highs. It can run as long as 6/7 minutes after shutdown depending on the outside temp.
Good luck.
The trans monitor sensor is at the output of the converter.
It reacts instantly to fluid temp changes. The gauge meters past 280 degrees.
Normal running in OD average ambient temps shows about 150 degrees.
As soon as a hill causes the converter to unlock the temp will begin to climb due to the fluid shear that goes on.
Pulling high loads uphill for any distance will run the fluid temp upward to over 220 depending on how long, how fast and what the outside temp is.
This would scare most operators until they find out it's normal.
It is always going on whether you can see it or not.
Monitoring any other locations but the lines won't show this fast reactions.
The cooling action is also as fast once the trans locks up and time to cool takes place.
I run an 8x12 fan cooled aux cooler.
It does an added function of limiting the engine bay temp after shutdown and saves the rubber fittings.
After 198,000 I have never had an intake rubber fitting failure not to say that now there could be some that are getting hard.
The fan thermostat is set to run at 190 degrees +\- that limits the engine bay temp highs. It can run as long as 6/7 minutes after shutdown depending on the outside temp.
Good luck.



