HossPro's Build Thread "Old Red"
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Junior Member
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From: Utah
HossPro's Build Thread "Old Red"
Is this the correct forum to post this? My apologizes if not.
Finally decided to buckle down and start a build thread for my truck. This will be a slow build, but i'll try to be detailed and include a lot of pictures.
1999 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4, 5.4L, 3.73 Limited Slip
Little background on the truck... my father drove it off the lot back in July of '99, sold it to my brother around 2004, and I purchased it from that brother last month. It's almost completely stock and still running with 180,000 miles.
Finally decided to buckle down and start a build thread for my truck. This will be a slow build, but i'll try to be detailed and include a lot of pictures.
1999 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4, 5.4L, 3.73 Limited Slip
Little background on the truck... my father drove it off the lot back in July of '99, sold it to my brother around 2004, and I purchased it from that brother last month. It's almost completely stock and still running with 180,000 miles.
Last edited by HossPro; Sep 16, 2013 at 01:10 AM.
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From: Houston and College Station, TX
Ditto! And cranking is free. But your front end looks pretty high to me already for whatever reason. Good looking truck and good luck with that repair!
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Had the battery light turn on tonight. I took this picture while i was going about 30mph. 
Bad alternator?
Thanks for the heads up! I'll crawl under the truck tomorrow and see how much i can crank the stock keys. 
Thank you sir. Maybe those pictures make the front end look higher then it is... here's a few more pictures to show how it sits.
It's sitting on 10-15% tread 285/70r17s.
Thanks for the welcome!
Bad alternator? Maybe those pictures make the front end look higher then it is... here's a few more pictures to show how it sits.It's sitting on 10-15% tread 285/70r17s.
Thanks for the welcome!
Last edited by HossPro; Sep 17, 2013 at 04:25 AM.
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From: Houston and College Station, TX
Ok, maybe it's just me still not being used to looking at 4x4's or something. Mine is 2wd and I hate for 4wds are a solid 2.5" higher . . . haha
Could be the battery not being able to store enough charge, the alternator going, or a bad connection on the alternator, or some other possibilities I'm sure.
Could be the battery not being able to store enough charge, the alternator going, or a bad connection on the alternator, or some other possibilities I'm sure.
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Junior Member
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From: Utah
Ok, maybe it's just me still not being used to looking at 4x4's or something. Mine is 2wd and I hate for 4wds are a solid 2.5" higher . . . haha
Could be the battery not being able to store enough charge, the alternator going, or a bad connection on the alternator, or some other possibilities I'm sure.
Could be the battery not being able to store enough charge, the alternator going, or a bad connection on the alternator, or some other possibilities I'm sure.
I think it may be the alternator. It was having a hard time staying on. Also I spayed the engine bay a little bit before it started so maybe the water got in places it shouldn't have been.... drove it a bit today and it ran perfect... drop 20 miles to pick up this bad boy and it ran great.
$80 came with key and locks/handles work great. Not too bad.
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From: Houston and College Station, TX
I still have never washed my engine bay with pressured water, breaks things and nobody ever sees it so I don't mind it being dirty.
Good pick up on the toolbox. I pulled one off of a trade-in at work for $50. It's the same size as that, but black
Good pick up on the toolbox. I pulled one off of a trade-in at work for $50. It's the same size as that, but black
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: MI
Yea, you need a new transmission mount. That's how you know when they're bad, ie, - Busted manifold studs and it's hard on the drive-train.
See, the bushing wears down to nothing, you just have one mount directly under the trans. The trans and transfer case sinks about 3/4 of an inch. You exhaust Y is tied directly to the trans mount via plate and hanger.
That stress bends and eventually shears the rear manifold studs. Stress is just one problem, drive-train vibration is another. Once the bushing material wears out below the trans, it sinks until metal to metal contact. That contact vibration takes it's tole after a while.
So change that mount, it's easy and cheap, I mean it's right there below the trans, you can see the nuts and studs in the center of the cross member looking at it.
I'd do that before the manifold studs. That way you take the stress off and everything will line up when get around to fixing it. Also you may want to do the mount and the manifold repair at the same time. Replacing just the mount could promote or enhance a leak.
See, the bushing wears down to nothing, you just have one mount directly under the trans. The trans and transfer case sinks about 3/4 of an inch. You exhaust Y is tied directly to the trans mount via plate and hanger.
That stress bends and eventually shears the rear manifold studs. Stress is just one problem, drive-train vibration is another. Once the bushing material wears out below the trans, it sinks until metal to metal contact. That contact vibration takes it's tole after a while.
So change that mount, it's easy and cheap, I mean it's right there below the trans, you can see the nuts and studs in the center of the cross member looking at it.
I'd do that before the manifold studs. That way you take the stress off and everything will line up when get around to fixing it. Also you may want to do the mount and the manifold repair at the same time. Replacing just the mount could promote or enhance a leak.
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Junior Member
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From: Utah
Yea, you need a new transmission mount. That's how you know when they're bad, ie, - Busted manifold studs and it's hard on the drive-train.
See, the bushing wears down to nothing, you just have one mount directly under the trans. The trans and transfer case sinks about 3/4 of an inch. You exhaust Y is tied directly to the trans mount via plate and hanger.
That stress bends and eventually shears the rear manifold studs. Stress is just one problem, drive-train vibration is another. Once the bushing material wears out below the trans, it sinks until metal to metal contact. That contact vibration takes it's tole after a while.
So change that mount, it's easy and cheap, I mean it's right there below the trans, you can see the nuts and studs in the center of the cross member looking at it.
I'd do that before the manifold studs. That way you take the stress off and everything will line up when get around to fixing it. Also you may want to do the mount and the manifold repair at the same time. Replacing just the mount could promote or enhance a leak.
See, the bushing wears down to nothing, you just have one mount directly under the trans. The trans and transfer case sinks about 3/4 of an inch. You exhaust Y is tied directly to the trans mount via plate and hanger.
That stress bends and eventually shears the rear manifold studs. Stress is just one problem, drive-train vibration is another. Once the bushing material wears out below the trans, it sinks until metal to metal contact. That contact vibration takes it's tole after a while.
So change that mount, it's easy and cheap, I mean it's right there below the trans, you can see the nuts and studs in the center of the cross member looking at it.
I'd do that before the manifold studs. That way you take the stress off and everything will line up when get around to fixing it. Also you may want to do the mount and the manifold repair at the same time. Replacing just the mount could promote or enhance a leak.
I'll defiantly look at getting that replaced. Sometimes accelerating from a stop it feels like the rear end is jumping up and down... possibly coming from the mount?I'll most likely replace the alternator, just to be on the safe side and who knows how old it is.
Here's some more pictures of the toolbox and a new sticker (that's crooked lol)
Last edited by HossPro; Sep 19, 2013 at 02:49 AM.
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Junior Member
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From: Utah
Does anyone know the largest tire that will fit with out rubbing at full flex (with cranked keys)? I've been trying to do some research on this and it's a pain. Is there a thread somewhere? I'll continue to use the search bar
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Junior Member
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From: Utah
Installed a Flowmaster Super 44 muffler this morning. It sounds great! 3" into the Super 44 and 3" out dumper at 45* under the bed. I'll try to get some pictures and videos posted soon.