So i am contemplating fixing the rust on my truck this summer and am curious where you all are getting your replacement panels at? I know some of you have done this, and i know there has to be someplace that is cheaper than LMC.

The plan is to weld them in myself, prime and rustoleum gloss black and then so its not so obvious either rhino liner or vinal camo wrap the part that would typically be two toned.

mostly i am looking for input on a halfway cheap source for panels ( i need both rockers, all four bed corners, and i am trying to find a new tailgate) the truck is a 97 extended cab.

Thanks for any ideas!

 

Take lots of pics and keep updates going on your progress. I need to do the same thing and am curious about cost myself.

 

I've been doing it for years, - off and on. More off lately lol. I'm getting the itch again tho to finish the 98.

Yes, - I won't use LMC unless I have to. I haven't had to yet. They're too pricey for me and they sell the same metal replacement panels that every else does.

No, I use these guys only for price and product. -

Raybucks

There's also these guys, - I haven't used them yet, but they look to be fairly priced, -so I have them as a "go-to" when needing panels, -

Auto-Body parts

Tell me which mig your using and I show you the best set up and how to weld it successfully. If you don't know that is. I wouldn't contemplate rustoleum lol, - not for this. It's no where near durable enough. It won't last for sure. If you do this, you have to do everything a certain way. Skipping one little detail makes this fix a big waste of time.

You need the good primer, - "self etching", then a high build primer/filler. You can get that in a aerosol can at a supplier, - just as you can get you your paint code in a can. They do that at the Auto Body paint supply's. They'll can your color code for you in aerosol if you like. Wear a respirator at all times shooting the good stuff. It WILL KILL you if you don't.

Your not going to get the finish you want unless you use a gun. You really need a gun for paint atomization. A GOOD hvlp gun and none other. They retain most their value, - so purchase a good one, then resell it. They aren't cheap. For instance a DeVILBISS FinishLine 4 HVLP, Sata jet 4000 or at least a Sharpe hvlp. I suppose you may be able to get away with this set up, -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spra-Tool-Aerosol-Spray-Paint-Gun-/230984173990?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item35c7bac9a6&vxp=mtr
MAYBE, with the lower panels alone, - but again, they will can it for you at the supplier. Virtually all automotive paints, new and old, require thinning with whats called “reducers” to make them the correct consistency for spraying and to somewhat control drying times. Also finish quality.

This isn't easy, but the more you learn, the better you'll do. This takes a fair amount of time. It's expensive to get all this done right. Those guys should charge more because it's very high skill/experience and talent level. There's info you need to know, - a small world of it lol. If you don't enjoy it, don't try. I'll never do it again lol. I'll pay!

 

Thanks for the input! I've been looking and found some better prices than LMC. My truck has 210k and I don't want to sink tons of money into it. the plan is to keep it as a toy/ weekend warrior type of thing.

I am sick of looking at the rust. I don't plan on selling the truck at this point as its not worth anything to anyone but me so when it comes to the finish of the paint i am not to concerned. I just don't want it to come off and rust. (hence the camo vinal wrap) I was planning on the self etching primer, as to the top coat i am just looking for something to seal it up and then shoot some clear before putting the wrap on it.

As to the welder, not sure yet. My dad is getting a 110 (insert laughter here) sometime this summer for another project and my uncle who is a welder by trade is going to be assisting in set up and will hopefully be able to get things going smoothly.

Also my best friends dad owns a body shop. When it comes down too it i can probably pay them to shoot some decent paint if i cant find anything that would hold up. Heck once i get the panels in i might even have them do the primer too. hahaha.


The main goal is to get solid metal on the truck I am not really going for pretty as i am covering it with a wrap. (i will also remove the flares and have them wrapped to match and the top bumper pad.... kind of in the theme of a toy/ weekend warrior truck)

 

Yea, sounds like a good plan, - wish I had those resources. Well I do, but don't use them lol. The panel welding was a challenge at first, but was fun to learn, -so I had no problems. You need at least a 100-140 amps to fillet weld 1/8”. I would stay with the 140 series myself, - no lower. So a small mig actually is choice, - unless you have TIG and can multi task with that thing inside your skull. TIG would be choice for sure. But, you need a larger machine to run a TIG inverter, then lots of practice lol. I still re-certify myself each time before taking on a project or I'll get some nasty results lol. If you don't do this for a living, - always sample first. Get it right before hand uknow. There's quite a few tricks and short cuts that make it easy, fast to get yourself dialed into that reality. I would explain further, but there's really no need. As long as dad knows what to get, you'll be alright. For this size welder (mig),- nothing but these 3, - Lincoln, Hobart or Miller. There's very minor differences, but nothing major between the three that you will use for this type of work.- Tractor Supply usual has a good selection of Hobart Welders and the Hobart Handler series, which is a very good machine, is on sale sometimes for a really good price. They are good also about stocking parts and consumables and can have the machine serviced if necessary. I heard the little Hobart welders (the 140 handlers)have been upgraded a notch as well not to long ago. I use an old Hob 140 vrs the Miller Dynasty when it comes to patch panels. That's just personal pref, they all work very very well. Just never stray from either of those companies and you'll be alright.

 

Being able to tig would be just awesome! haha but sadly my experience is about 99 percent stick welding. There will definitely be a lot of practice on some scrap metal even with the mig before i even cut anything off of my truck. Just because i don't care if there is a line in the paint doesn't mean i dont care that the welds come out nice! i dont want the whole bottom edge of my truck to be bondo when it is all said and done.


As to paint, after i lay down a decent primer, is there any paint in a rattle can that is good enough to shoot on top? I know you suggested some ideas earlier as to getting things canned but is there anything already in a can that would stick and last?


I will pass the information about welders onto my dad as he is buying it to do some welding on a 1978 Datsun 280zx and i know he will want something that will do the job right the first time.

Thanks for the help hopefully he will be getting the welder here in a couple of weeks and once he does i will be ordering my patch panels (at the very least the ones on the cab, i may try to hold out for a whole new bed)

 

Call an autobody paint supplier in your area. Like Sherwin Williams (they're good if they handle automotive paint). Call around , look for a painters supply. I'm not sure what they do for yuh, it depends. You can get a base coat/clear mix, but mannn, - I would not use a rattle can. If you search around for info, (Google/YouTube), you may get a quick lesson? Shoot, miracles happen at You Tube on the hour. One dude got a sweet looking perfect paint job and claimed he did it all w/50 cans of Barbeque Black. That must of took some rubbin!

 

Ill look into it and see what i can dig up. I just assumed that a company would have come up with a decent rattle can of paint by now. I know when i had my ranger i redid the tailgate with a rattle cant of gold with flake in it from orileys and the only thing was it was to bright but i figured that was due to the original paint being painted. It seemed to hold up.... but i only had the truck for two months after i did that

But i will see what i can find from paint suppliers/ body shops and try and get something decent.

 

RockAuto.com sells:

Rocker panels for less than $50 each
Bed corners for less than $90 each
Tailgate shells for only $98.