The engine isn't misfiring anymore; switching to Motorcraft plugs fixed that; they are properly gapped.

Is there a way to check the cam sensor to see if it is good or bad? Or do you need to replace it and see if that fixes the problem?

 

Would you describe how you replaced the lash adjusters?

 

I removed the valve cover and used the special tool needed to compress the springs; I wiggled the rocker arms out; pulled out the lash adjusters; put a little oil on the news ones and slid them in; then put everything back together. I think that's it. The sound I'd been trying to get rid of did not change at all.

 

Good job on the lash adjusters but you should not do these things without positive proof it needs to be done.
For example the last one to think he was doing a good deed by changing plugs, injectors and coils without positive proof got into a lot of trouble with poor replacement parts.
At that point I recommended he put the old parts back in and start over.
The truck ran fine with the old parts.
.
Believe the code and what it tells you because it's very specific.
The sensor generates a voltage change pulse when a raised portion of the cam gear passes by it as a timing reference.
You can put a meter on the terminals, crank the engine over and see the meter needle deflect if it's good.
And don't change parts on a hunch, or what someone else says, without proof. You only waist money, have a possibility of bad parts or some other happening, then your into confusion over the result.
Good luck.

 

I hear ya, Bluegrass, believe me. I honestly thought I had it narrowed down well enough to give the lash adjusters a try. I opened things up and couldn't discern any wear or damage to anything else; nothing loose; so I thought it might be a lash adjuster that was no longer functioning properly. Wrong. I realized later as well that I hadn't thought to prime the new lash adjusters before putting them in. They did sound a little different right at first, but they seemed to fill almost right away.

Also, when I did the coils, wires, and plugs, I used all Motorcraft parts. After the Autolite mistake, I realized I needed to be very particular about the parts.

So with this camshaft sensor fault code, if the sensor is good, then it means there's some kind of irregularity in the timing of those teeth that pass the sensor, is that correct? What would cause that, a worn component in the timing chain assembly?

 

Well, what'ya know, I tried resetting the CEL once more, and it seems to be staying off. Go finger.

 

To answer your sensor detection question, unless the chain has been removed from the cam sprocket or replaced one tooth off either way for some reason the relationship has to stay the same for timing the pulse.
If the chain was placed off position you likely would feel a difference in how the motor runs because one bank would be out of time with respect to the other.
Check that the plug stays in place and locked on.
The reason there is a sensor is to time fuel injection just like ignition.
Only difference is the injection takes place when the intake valve is open for each cylinder.
As a side note, fuel injection does not have to be at that time or from a distant location, it could be even earlier but is the more efficient way to make it happen short of direct injection into the cylinder, that is now done on late motors.
Matter of fact, backing up in time, the first injection was at the throttle body with two injectors, then batch injection of an 8 cylinder motor with only 4 injectors from a more common location, then to 8 injectors.
The second difference is, the air stream is wet with fuel the farther away from the cylinders the injection takes place.
This has pros and cons. Fuel in the air stream makes the charge a bit cooler but takes up space in the stream and can condense out along the way. Has effects on cold starting, emissions effects etc. so they engineer for the best overall end result emissions 'law', at the time.
For racing, the uses of these attributes take a different form for max power without regard for anything else.
NASCAR just changed over from carburation to fuel injection in the last two years. The thing that make everybody near equal now, they all have to use the same sealed system from the same source and it has a limited range of adjustment that can be made according to rules.
Good luck.

 

Bluegrass, thank you for all the information. That definitely answers my question! I'd thought that perhaps something just being worn would create enough variation to trip the sensor. There's definitely nothing wrong like you describe. The truck runs nicely except for the couple of odd noises I'm trying to pin down. And that sensor now seems to be working properly as well. Thanks again.