1997 - 2003 F-150

Best way to hide door and cab corner rust?

Old May 7, 2013 | 01:53 PM
  #1  
ckgreenstep's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: North New Jersey
Best way to hide door and cab corner rust?

Passenger side:

Name:  20130507_121322.jpg
Views: 6547
Size:  135.6 KB

Drivers side:

Name:  20130507_121344.jpg
Views: 8520
Size:  100.2 KB

When I got the truck last summer, the previous owner sprayed the bottom panel of the doors and rear cab corners with bedliner. 2 Reasons I removed the liner, I liked the stock paint look better, and the rust was bubbling up behind the liner. Didn't look good.

So I ended up doing an auto zone paint job. Rattle cans and a day of work. Actually came out pretty good. But, alas, the rust came back through.

I'm trying to think of a way to hide it, I know there's no way to stop it now. I tried self etching primer, POR-15 on the backs of the doors, ect, before I painted. And it still came back.

I didn't mind the holes so much as the rust. But now I'm thinking just putting a thick layer of POR-15 on it, and putting some sort of panel on the bottoms of the doors and the corners.

Anyone done something like this? I found this:

http://www.autoanything.com/body-kit...0A6A174A1.aspx

but not sure that would cover all of it, like the bottoms, and I don't want to spend that much just to end up painting over it. I really don't want chrome.

Open to other suggestions as well. I know the correct answer is to either weld in new bottom doorskins and cab corners or just to ignore the rust. But I'd like to see if there's an in between option.
 
Reply
Old May 7, 2013 | 01:56 PM
  #2  
TruckGuy24's Avatar
Senior Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 10,731
Likes: 47
From: Concord, NC
My thing is it will keep spreading and result in a failed inspection. Other than welding in a new section, I'm not sure how to cover it up.
 
Reply
Old May 7, 2013 | 02:02 PM
  #3  
ckgreenstep's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: North New Jersey
Never thought about inspection. Didn't have a problem with it in NJ. I'll be moving to Nashville by the fall. I lived there before and don't remember it being that strict though. Mostly just CELs, bulbs, and exhaust.
 
Reply
Old May 7, 2013 | 03:49 PM
  #4  
jbrew's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 25,641
Likes: 19
From: MI
Yea mine did the same thing. IMO, It's not that expensive to replace the the infected panels. I replaced all that stuff, - and still working it here and there. Tell you what, - I'll never do this again...

Green 3M Duct-tape, - 3 coats.
 
Reply
Old May 7, 2013 | 04:05 PM
  #5  
ckgreenstep's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: North New Jersey
Originally Posted by jbrew
Yea mine did the same thing. IMO, It's not that expensive to replace the the infected panels. I replaced all that stuff, - and still working it here and there. Tell you what, - I'll never do this again...

Green 3M Duct-tape, - 3 coats.
How much did it end up costing you? And what did you do it? I've even though about buying the corners and lower door pieces, and having a shop weld them in, and just sand it down and paint it myself. The cutting and welding is the only thing I don't have the ability to do.
 
Reply
Old May 7, 2013 | 04:36 PM
  #6  
ManualF150's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 10,636
Likes: 264
From: Vernon, NY
Most of that can be cleaned up and use body filler fiberglass to fix.

Are those running boards attached to the frame or to the body?

They look like they are just hung from the body.
 
Reply
Old May 7, 2013 | 05:08 PM
  #7  
ckgreenstep's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: North New Jersey
Originally Posted by ManualF150
Most of that can be cleaned up and use body filler fiberglass to fix.

Are those running boards attached to the frame or to the body?

They look like they are just hung from the body.
I thought about the fiberglass and body filler, but someone told me that body filler expands are different temperatures than the metal, and will not last long before it cracks, and the rust will still come through.


And are you referring to my nerf bars? I'll have to look to see exactly where they're attached. They came with the truck.
 
Reply

Trending Topics

Old May 7, 2013 | 05:19 PM
  #8  
AndersonS's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 752
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, TN
Nashville? HA.

You probably just need to make sure all the wheels are on the truck to get your tags renewed.

But yea, they just hook a scanner to the OBD II port, visually check your exhaust, leak test your gas cap, and put a sniffer in the tailpipe.
 
Reply
Old May 8, 2013 | 04:22 PM
  #9  
Need4racin's Avatar
Senior Member
15 Year Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,120
Likes: 0
Grind it down, both side. It's rusting from the inside out. pump the rockers and inside bottom of doors full of oil and grease afterwards.
 
Reply
Old May 9, 2013 | 03:22 PM
  #10  
ryan.sampson's Avatar
Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
There's no solving it, you could put a brand new cab on it and thats still gonna rust.

Welding one in really isnt that big of a job, it took me a day to each side and its not noticable unless you look for it. But if you want somewhere in between just go the pop rivet route... You can fab up some sheet metal, pop rivet it in, fiberglass over it, and paint
 
Reply
Old May 9, 2013 | 04:57 PM
  #11  
4.2xl2001's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
From: New Hampshire
whatever you do, cut out the rust to slow it down from spreading
 
Reply
Old May 9, 2013 | 08:04 PM
  #12  
Patman's Avatar
Global Moderator &
Senior Member
20 Year Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 21,337
Likes: 159
From: DFW
Originally Posted by ckgreenstep
Best way to hide door and cab corner rust?
Just close your eyes
 
Reply


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:07 AM.