2000 f150 e-fan questions
2000 f150 e-fan questions
Im thinking about doing the conversion, but I have some questions. I am looking at getting a fan out of a Taurus or lincoln but ive heard they pull 80 amps. Im wanting to do a single high speed setup for now. Would i need both fans or just one. Im curious to what amp rating relays would I need? 80? Also the thermostat probe is adjustable how would I go about adjusting correctly? all opinions and suggestions are welcome.
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Posted from F150online.com App for Android
The single Lincoln fan cools a 4.6 motor with a factory controller.
That fan draws, at startup, as high as 140 amps uncontrolled.
The Taurus fans are two smaller ones for a V6 motor.
They also are controlled from a factory controller for vairable cooling.
This setup uses less current at any given time.
For reliability, you need to use proper electrical hardware and installation.
I would not run any fan in this application full time.
An electrical thermostat has to operate a slave relay with rated current contacts.
You need fusing and proper size wire to handle the worst case load current.
The proper way is the use an after market controller with step starting and temperature control.
The whole design should be able to handle worst case low road speed hot summer loads with A/C and lights on..
The normal engine temperature range is 195 to about 205 degrees.
The thermostat should have about that temperature operating spread of 5 to 8 degrees.
The battery has to be first class as well as the alternator for these kinds of loads.
Remember the power to run the fans is not free. The motor still has to turn the alternator to make the power.
The rule of thumb is it takes about 1.5 hp to generate 1000 watts.
At the worst case of 140 amps X 14.4 volts = 2016 watts.
With all losses considered it takes at least 4 to 5 hp to make this power or about the same as power steering, and the A/C compressor in operation.
It's not as easy to engineer as you may have heard without using a tried and proven control system.
A good contoller may cost you many times the cost of a fan.
The Lincoln and Taurus controllers could be used but they are complex such that you would need to be able to read the drawings and sort out the parts of the controller circuits you need.
.
.
The gains are from not running a mechanical fan full time, accelerating the fan as road speeds change.
The electric fan can be turned off when not needed and provide some small , increase in fuel mileage.
The difference in power would be about the same as you feel when turning A/C on or off during hot weather.
I'm not telling not to do it but if you feel the job is worthwhile, the background above is worth knowing a little about.
Good luck..
That fan draws, at startup, as high as 140 amps uncontrolled.
The Taurus fans are two smaller ones for a V6 motor.
They also are controlled from a factory controller for vairable cooling.
This setup uses less current at any given time.
For reliability, you need to use proper electrical hardware and installation.
I would not run any fan in this application full time.
An electrical thermostat has to operate a slave relay with rated current contacts.
You need fusing and proper size wire to handle the worst case load current.
The proper way is the use an after market controller with step starting and temperature control.
The whole design should be able to handle worst case low road speed hot summer loads with A/C and lights on..
The normal engine temperature range is 195 to about 205 degrees.
The thermostat should have about that temperature operating spread of 5 to 8 degrees.
The battery has to be first class as well as the alternator for these kinds of loads.
Remember the power to run the fans is not free. The motor still has to turn the alternator to make the power.
The rule of thumb is it takes about 1.5 hp to generate 1000 watts.
At the worst case of 140 amps X 14.4 volts = 2016 watts.
With all losses considered it takes at least 4 to 5 hp to make this power or about the same as power steering, and the A/C compressor in operation.
It's not as easy to engineer as you may have heard without using a tried and proven control system.
A good contoller may cost you many times the cost of a fan.
The Lincoln and Taurus controllers could be used but they are complex such that you would need to be able to read the drawings and sort out the parts of the controller circuits you need.
.
.
The gains are from not running a mechanical fan full time, accelerating the fan as road speeds change.
The electric fan can be turned off when not needed and provide some small , increase in fuel mileage.
The difference in power would be about the same as you feel when turning A/C on or off during hot weather.
I'm not telling not to do it but if you feel the job is worthwhile, the background above is worth knowing a little about.
Good luck..



