sputter after changing spark plugs
sputter after changing spark plugs
I have a 1997 f-150 5.4 ,4x4 . Decided to change spark plugs today . then after I was done the truck starting shaking and sputtering . and the gas pedal is sticky as well . not sure how all this happened by changing them.
I used bosch double platinum, which is what it had already.
I used bosch double platinum, which is what it had already.
Your going to get firm advice not to use Bosch plugs but that should not cause an immediate problem like this.
Are you sure you used dielectric grease inside the boot tips and sure the boots all set down over the plug tips and not co*ked off to the side?
All coils plugged up firm and injector plugs on firm.
On the throttle , it's very easy to look at.
All the linkage is open to see.
Good luck.
Are you sure you used dielectric grease inside the boot tips and sure the boots all set down over the plug tips and not co*ked off to the side?
All coils plugged up firm and injector plugs on firm.
On the throttle , it's very easy to look at.
All the linkage is open to see.
Good luck.
My throttle just did same thing. I took air cleaner assembly off and cleaned the throttle body butterfly. Problem solved. And for the others I would look at what bluegrass said. Check all connections I.E injecter plugs ect... And maybe a bad COP?
Also check to make sure all the electrical plugs feeding the COPs are in all the way, as well as injectors and anyhting else you may have touched
Just noticed BLuegrass already said that ^, can't hurt to double check anyway
Just noticed BLuegrass already said that ^, can't hurt to double check anyway
Last edited by dirtrider596979; Jan 4, 2013 at 11:15 AM.
Plug boots dry out and get brittle after a while. If these are the original boots then you may have cracked them when taking them out. Did you clean the corrosion off of the boot spring/connector? Did you check for a clean connection on the coil side of the boot or did you just leave the boot on and then push the cop back onto the plug?
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it could be a broken ceramic on one of the plugs. one of my buddies had this happen to him where his truck was missing right after he changed the plugs. but i also think it could be the bosch plugs. i always use motorcraft or autolites.
if you have a buddy to help you you can narrow down which cylinder it is that is having a problem by doing a cylinder contribution test. first, start it up and sit in the driver's seat. raise the rpm's up to around a 1000 or 1500 rpms then hold your foot still for the rest of the test. have your buddy disconnect either the injector or the COP connector for one cylinder and note how much the rpms drop. then plug it back in and disconnect the injector or COP connector for the next cylinder and so on until you have done all cylinders. then compare the numbers. if the rpms dropped a lot that means the cylinder is contributing a lot. there should be one cylinder where the rpms are not dropping very much. this is the cylinder you are looking for. if it doesnt work at 1000 rpms you may need to try it at a little higher rpms, like 1500 or 2000 rpms.
edit: note: the cylinder contribution test i described will most likely cause a check engine code for each cylinder you disconnect. this may also cover up any previously stored check engine codes related to the sputtering.
if you have a buddy to help you you can narrow down which cylinder it is that is having a problem by doing a cylinder contribution test. first, start it up and sit in the driver's seat. raise the rpm's up to around a 1000 or 1500 rpms then hold your foot still for the rest of the test. have your buddy disconnect either the injector or the COP connector for one cylinder and note how much the rpms drop. then plug it back in and disconnect the injector or COP connector for the next cylinder and so on until you have done all cylinders. then compare the numbers. if the rpms dropped a lot that means the cylinder is contributing a lot. there should be one cylinder where the rpms are not dropping very much. this is the cylinder you are looking for. if it doesnt work at 1000 rpms you may need to try it at a little higher rpms, like 1500 or 2000 rpms.
edit: note: the cylinder contribution test i described will most likely cause a check engine code for each cylinder you disconnect. this may also cover up any previously stored check engine codes related to the sputtering.
Last edited by sharpshooter109; Jan 6, 2013 at 11:30 PM.
You need to remove all those plugs and chuck them. Otherwise, you may be needing an engine before to long.
Look it up. - Or possibly learn the hard way. Those plugs are poison. In this case, -I suggest following your manual when pulling maintenance with this one, -you'll drive longer.
Look it up. - Or possibly learn the hard way. Those plugs are poison. In this case, -I suggest following your manual when pulling maintenance with this one, -you'll drive longer.




