Hi guys, please don't be disgruntled that yet another IMRC post. But my truck started running rough. Firstly I did wires, plugs, sprayed maf quickly (didnt disassemble, just sprayed in canister) , coil pack, no fix. Read CEL and got IMRC code. I then gave it to a "mechanic" to do the imrc, which he never did and just sat on my truck for about 2 months. Costing me a new battery and brake lines to fix.

So then I finally got into the IMRC, sure enough the arm was out of the "throttle body" style assembly. Fixed, reassembled. Connected battery, ran a bit more normal but still a bit rough/miss. And the CEL came back on, why I am unsure because i didnt have reader on hand this time. PArked it, unplugged battery. Went back 2 days later, I thought maybe "mechanic" played with plug wire arrangement after I left it that day. He didn't and they were on correct still, so I connected battery and started for ****s n giggles. It ran perfectly and no CEL. Went and got gas after driving for about 5-10 minutes. Got back with it, checked a thing or 2 , went to pull out and it was sluggish again.... And no CEL...

So I'm really confused now, and mad since I thought I finally was good after everything. So I have truck still running after a rough spin around block again, and figure i'll try to unplug the lead/connection to the MAF. I only did it for about 5-10 seconds, but giving it throttle quickly it was acting exactly the same as plugged in. So my question is, could the MAF be bad now? Would I be correct or a dummy for assuming it's bad from this? Did it run default when i let sit then connected battery, then finally started reading from MAF then go rough? I don't mind spending what I need to to fix this truck already, but I don't want to buy a MAF if this is not the proper way to be thinking with what happened. Any advice is greatly appreciated in advance guys! Thanks

 

Hello Josh,
First lets talk to you.
You don't do any guessing without a lead to support it.
You need to know a lot more how things work instead of doing this and that.
.
When you remove the battery power, you completely reboot the computer back to it's base program.
Everything learned that shifted the operating tables is lost.
Often the motor will drive differently for awhile.
At this point you have little to go on.
Unplugging sensors is not a good idea unless you know what the result should be of doing so otherwie it proves little.
Run it to get a code set then work on what system the code is addrerssing.
Work things out one at a time or you will be in constant confusion.
Note how cold start goes. Is there any issue?
Note hot start/idle. Is there any issue?
Note cruise drivability . Is there any issue?
Note accelleration. Is there any issue?
.
On a v6 there is a cam shaft sensor. Has it been worked on? It controls fuel injection and must be times correctly.
Has the fuel pressure been checked?
Until you note these things and look for a common cause of an issue you would need to be lucky to solve anything without spending and getting upset at the lack of progress..
Codes! and what they refer to is the key.
Good luck.
.

 

Run it to get a code set then work on what system the code is addrerssing.
Work things out one at a time or you will be in constant confusion.
Note how cold start goes. Is there any issue?
Note hot start/idle. Is there any issue?
Note cruise drivability . Is there any issue?
Note accelleration. Is there any issue?
.
On a v6 there is a cam shaft sensor. Has it been worked on? It controls fuel injection and must be times correctly.
Has the fuel pressure been checked?

.[/QUOTE]

After i fixed the imrc problem , it has not thrown any codes yet. And that was indeed the code i got after i did the tune up stuff, but didnt get reader till after.
cold start fresh battery connection - runs like it did before imrc problem 100%
after it warmed up(10-20 min driving, getting gas, etc) started acting sluggish again
cruising with no throttle - normal
acceleration after time lapsed a little hesitant. not like it was when imrc was off but not 100% like when running after battery disconnect period.
i have replaced cam sensor when i first got the truck handed down to me, since it had a cel for it. even when it was bad it was only sluggish pulling out of dead stops. which is not problem now.
no fuel pressure checked, never had any problems other than mentioned, so i dont see that as my problem. especially after the occurances after i fixed imrc.

so that being said, and I do have decent mechanical knowledge, I was only stabbing in the dark months ago when it started running off and I didnt get it on a scanner yet. Figured id do a tuneup.

I am going to pull the iac and maf again and pull maf out this time instead of just spraying into the housing. I really think the maf might have got hosed by me improperly cleaning it, or is dirty from said then running it on miss from imrc then letting it sit for months. I just wanted to know if anyone could back it up before i pull it apart again. I can also add, that when i got the truck i was stupid and pulled off the housing of the filter, so the filter is just clamped onto the maf end of the housing and open. Plus i noticed that the circular clamp wasnt keeping the ratty old filter tight onto the assembly. I do believe due to all this its either dirty or has gotten ruined.

Im still open for anyone elses experiences that may be like mine to support or not until i get the chance in next day or two to proceed again. Thanks guys

 

Go to the junkyard and get a whole intake tube and air box assembly, preferably with the MAF still in it.

 

thats what im thinking, probably going to pull maf and aic tomorrow and try clean and do inspection . but that is what im leaning towards

 

What does IMRC stand for?


OP you need to check for vacuum leaks before you throw any more parts at the truck.

 

Intake Manifold Runner Control

 

I have checked for leaks and found none. And beyond physically checking , am I stupid to assume that If it had that bad of vacuum leaks somewhere it would run badly no matter what. The only reason im leaning towards something simple like MAF now is since when the computer gets reset, it runs fine till it starts getting readings im thinking. It literally ran 100% when it sat for those 2 days after imrc fix, and fresh battery connect. 10 minutes later- poop , but not poop like when imrc was off.

 

So i went to get the truck and drive it to my workplace. Connected battery, ran 100% for about 8 miles of the 10 mile trip. Go to work. Unplugged maf and drove up and down the road once, it was the same as it drove funky when plugged in the last 2 miles.

I Pulled IAC and MAF. MAF looked totally clean. It isnt the one with the fly looking thing, just two tiny wires with a transister on each. I had 2 stink bugs hanging out in the canister though. The IAC looks a tad dirty and kinda oily where the larger spring part is.

Could the maf still be bad or dirty even though it looks perfect?

I'm starting to scratch my head again here. I figured the maf was gonna look toasted.

 

Well i sprayed out the iac and maf. put back on a good bit later. Still the same, but it finally threw a CEL. So tomorrow I will have access to a scan tool and get some codes posted if its not anything obvious. Maybe i'll be lucky and it'll be the MAF code I have been leaning towards. I found one and the air box assembly locally. So now I just need the code(s).

I should have them soon!

 

Got code. its p0174 . Any insight, from my searches i see as suggested vacuum leak, and even MAF. So could I be right the MAF is shot since i've just cleaned it and no resolve, as well as unplugging it with no change?

 

•P0174 System Too Lean, Bank No. 2

 

MAF will not cause a lean on only one bank....

 

If not MAF, where should I be heading? As mentioned i've checked vacuum.

 

From what i've searched and read since there have been no replies...
DPFE, EGR, and PCV and elbows.... I am planning on replacing all 4 things tomorrow one by one to determine and fix hopefully.

I don't see vaccum leaks via pcv and the elbows but for the 6 dollars im going to do them. I pulled out original pvc and it looked nasty.

And i'm trying the dpfe and egr from suggestions from code other than the maf which i'm told wont throw just 1 cyl CEL. Is this a good idea to try dpfe and egr even though I don't have an egr code particularly? This kinda confuses me as a problem but it's what i've read and even Ford dealer suggested it today.

I can get egr and dpfe both for cheap locally and can return if they aren't the actual problem as long as i install/uninstall nicely. Since I have gotten no other leads, anyone wanna chime in on if they think this is gonna be the problem?