Need Help, Im at a dead end!!
Need Help, Im at a dead end!!
My problem is simple, my heater will not work. Now Ive done the following.
1. Heater Core leaked steam into vents. (Heat worked great)
2. Replaced Heater Core with a used one. New Cooland. Broke Blend Door and removed. (No heat at all)
3. Replaced Thermostat after noticing how much pressure my radiator hose had. (No heat at all.)
4. New Heater Core installed and checked for good pressure and leaks New Coolant added again.( No heat)
5. Reinstalled Blend Door after removing and put in Closed. I think thats the hot position. (No heat still cold air only)
6. Checked HVAC lines and made sure the doors worked had the dash looking like the terminator. result GOOD. (no heat)
7. New water pump installed. Noticed radiator hose had little to no pressure sofigured replacement. Old pump had impellers still. (No heat)
8. Disconnected A/C. (Very little warm air from vents now)
9. Coolant is good not rusty, flow is good. doesnt over heat.
10. Going to replace cold/hot control *** and pray thats it....
Any ideas on anything I can try, im getting tired of taking my dash apart.
1. Heater Core leaked steam into vents. (Heat worked great)
2. Replaced Heater Core with a used one. New Cooland. Broke Blend Door and removed. (No heat at all)
3. Replaced Thermostat after noticing how much pressure my radiator hose had. (No heat at all.)
4. New Heater Core installed and checked for good pressure and leaks New Coolant added again.( No heat)
5. Reinstalled Blend Door after removing and put in Closed. I think thats the hot position. (No heat still cold air only)
6. Checked HVAC lines and made sure the doors worked had the dash looking like the terminator. result GOOD. (no heat)
7. New water pump installed. Noticed radiator hose had little to no pressure sofigured replacement. Old pump had impellers still. (No heat)
8. Disconnected A/C. (Very little warm air from vents now)
9. Coolant is good not rusty, flow is good. doesnt over heat.
10. Going to replace cold/hot control *** and pray thats it....
Any ideas on anything I can try, im getting tired of taking my dash apart.
Jack the front of the truck up about a foot or two in the air, turn heater to max heat and run engine until it gets to normal operating temperature, that should help to "burp" any air bubbles out of the heater core.
Or park on a steep driveway, or however you can get it to work out where the front is significantly higher than the rear of the truck
Or park on a steep driveway, or however you can get it to work out where the front is significantly higher than the rear of the truck
Ok mission accomplished with negative results....Still no heat from heater.
my thermostat is a 190or 195 rating.
Going to try the hot cold *** replacement even though I think it controls the actuator that openstheheater coredoor.
is the on position for the heater core have the door open?? or closed...
my thermostat is a 190or 195 rating.
Going to try the hot cold *** replacement even though I think it controls the actuator that openstheheater coredoor.
is the on position for the heater core have the door open?? or closed...
Did you fill it right?

Yea, you have to disconnect that heater hose or it's a PITA.
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Hey I just solved a no heat situation with my 1999. Turns out the shaft for the hot/cold **** was stripped. Turning the **** wasn't turning the control shaft. Pull your **** off and try turning the shaft with some pliers.
The blend door actuator motor controls where the blend door moves.
My 2003 F150 owner's manual describes the calibration sequence for the actuator motor which is required after the battery has been unhooked long enough to reset it. Otherwise, the motor can twist the blend door shaft too far and eventually snap the blend door hinge.
I thought it was weird that would be required until I took one apart and saw how it works.
I don't have my 2003 here or I would detail the procedure for you. Basically, after you reconnect the battery you run it through each gear position (for an automatic) and slowly twist the hot/cold **** from one side to the other and back.
My 2003 F150 owner's manual describes the calibration sequence for the actuator motor which is required after the battery has been unhooked long enough to reset it. Otherwise, the motor can twist the blend door shaft too far and eventually snap the blend door hinge.
I thought it was weird that would be required until I took one apart and saw how it works.
I don't have my 2003 here or I would detail the procedure for you. Basically, after you reconnect the battery you run it through each gear position (for an automatic) and slowly twist the hot/cold **** from one side to the other and back.




