Talk about Intelligence, reading and assuming. Thanks for proving my point and then some. It helps to slow down some times. Just saying, -might improve your comprehension difficulty. This isn't the first time, -noticed your still struggling. Keep at it.

 

BTW. The OP wanted opinions. If you don't like mine that's to fricken bad, you can stuff it. At least give the OP enough respect to keep that to yourself. Others can post their thoughts, it's okay, it won't kill yuh. Crapping up the users thread with your insecurity issues is BS.

 

sorry guys. i didn't mean to start a forum argument. thanks for all the opinions. i was talking with my wife & i think i'm going to start looking for something else. it just sucks b/c i wasn't expecting this kind of expense. i thought i was doing good with repairs & maintenance on the truck, but this has just turned into a nightmare.

 

KBB on my truck for my area is about 5400. using KBB sell your vehicle option, local dealers would only give me a little over 1900 for it. i've been starting to check around for repairs. there is a local guy with a low mileage engine & transmission (he didn't want to separate). seems like the average engine install around here will be around $2000.

taking that into consideration + the rust that is on the frame/suspension.....i think im going to have to move on (as sad as it may be).

 

Not your fault, your just misunderstanding a few things and I seriously doubt 1clean42 has ever turned a wrench.

First, the mechanic DID NOT drill into the heads. Exhaust flange studs/bolts are at the ball connection and break most of the time. They can be a PITA to fix. At this connection the studs run toward the front and back of the vehicle, with a small arch/radius @ about 22 degrees downward, -if that. With numerous heat and cool down cycles, they can harden significantly. It's possible to torch the studs out w/manifold removed, but while on the vehicle, the correct way is to drill them out. Some get so hard, you can wear out a diamond wheel re-sharpening a good cobalt drill bit over and over again. The best way is to use a carbide burr to run thru the stud, then drill accordingly. Saves time and usually works well. Another way is to drill one hole above the stud on one side and another hole below the stud on the other. Then use hardened bolt and nut vs stud replacement.
Once accomplished, you apply high temp permatex red (w/copper) to the manifold ball and torque nut/bolt accordingly.

Why it leaked. Most likley the mechanic was doing the best that could be done with what he had work with. Manifolds can get THAT BAD from corrosion,heat cycles and environment. That part handles a lot of abuse, but eventually with time. The ball may have cracked or the mating surface may have deteriorated. Whatever the case, an attempt was made to install the new converter onto that part in order to SAVE you money. He didn't have to do that. The mechanic could have stopped right there and informed the service manager that it needs a manifolds. Having done this quite a few times myself, I know he was questioning doing just that. regardless, an attempt was made to SAVE you a few bucks. Personally, I would stopped and had the manager call you to give you the choice, -new manifolds for the proper fix or attempt fastening your new convertors to the rusted/rotted pre existing parts as a temporary fix, -no guarantee. Maybe he did do that and was instructed to make it work with what he had. Who knows? But that means the people referenced all tried to save you a few bucks who are now at fault... Right?

Some customers don't respect or appreciate what is done solely for their benefit and love to whip out the blame finger.
_________________

So now you somehow got them to eat labor costs on a set of new manifolds, congratulations. Mechanic begins work and finds an attempt was made to repair a head leak w/jb weld. Of course the jb weld is bound to break right off, that's far from the proper fix. I'm sure this was brought to the managers attention and once again, -with the mechanic being directed to continue the replacement.

No, this guy DID NOT cause the leak, it was there and I seriously doubt they are going to jb weld for you. That's up to you. Purchasing this vehicle with a jb weld repair was just bad luck for you. Although it happens all the time, it isn't right to push the blame where it doesn't belong.

Note:

1. If they told you to sell it (lol).- No, that should not have been said. But it was, so what. Your going to have to get over it. No, no discloser lol, -keep it honest if selling. Someone did it to you, -carma WILL eventually catch them.

2. Yes, the use of a BFH (hammer) when removing rusted exhaust components is always a necessity to avoid cutting them apart. With Direct fit replacements, existing pipes are to be pulled apart most of the time. No, this WILL NOT hurt the manifold, there's just no way.

Hope that helps.

 

WOW DUDES! LMAO! almost passed this one by!

 

Also, EVEN IF, manifold head studs broke and needed extracting. There is NO procedure requiring you to completely drill out a broken stud. That's not how it's done and every tech/mechanic will tell you that. Those are very quick and easy to extract compared to flange studs.

 

Oh yea, you would of missed out lol.

 

How do you check something like that when buying a new used truck

 

just for clarification....i was the service manager there at the time. this all originally started b/c there was an exhaust leak from where the manifolds meet the converters. my lead tech originally drilled out the rusted flange bolts (that hold the converter to the manifold) & installed new bolts. but then i developed a leak from the converter. i paid for the converters & the labor. the 2nd tech that worked on the truck (to replace the converters) said that everything was rusted & he was wailing on the exhaust. unfortunately i was off for 2 days while he was doing it. he shouldn't have had a problem since my lead tech had just replaced all that hardware. it was supposed to go back to my lead tech, but unfortunately, the store manager thought i needed the truck back ASAP, so he gave it to a lower level tech. after the converters were replaced, i had a worst exhaust leak than with the old converters. it was verified by 4 techs the store manager & me (the service manager) that it was leaking from the manifold. that is why the labor on the manifolds was covered & i paid for the part (which if i pushed the issue, should have been covered).

a 3rd tech is the one that replaced the manifolds. it took him 10 hours. i wanted my lead tech to complete the work. but the new store manager didn't want to have the truck up there that long, so he gave the ticket to another tech. unfortunately for me, he was a new tech, so i was not sure of his ability/knowledge. there was not long period of time between the manifold repairs & the leak. once i saw the leak, i brought it back up for the lead tech to check. i just recently left the company.

 

In bold. You are incorrect as the initial fix does not require convertor disassembly.

Your ability to understand exactly what happened and what's entailed is the problem.

To change those converters, the Y was dropped from the manifold flange, from there with a convertor RR job, you HAVE TO nail them with a hammer as well as apply a little heat. NO that hardware WAS NOT replaced, just the flange studs that is it.

BTW- Being manager in all,- in the past, did you take the old converters over to salvage. Salvage pays $200 for old Ford 4 converter sets. The lowest paid I heard of was $160. What did you get?

You know what , I don't care. Wasted enough time. Techs did alright by me. 10 hrs is a little much, but not terribly bad considering.

 

i agree, it is wasted time. what the store/techs are doing is not where i was asking for opinions. i was asking what would others do if they were in the situation.....keep the truck or get rid of it. that's all, nothing else. i was a service manager that was definitely there for the techs. i'm not saying what the tech did was wrong. the part that is getting me is what he told me & what he is telling the management now. whether he did it or not, it's the cost of business. believe me, i was there. the things we were accused of just by doing a simple oil change...totally unrelated. but again, that's not what i was asking for. i gave that info to give some background on what was going on. but my question was whether to keep the truck or not.

 

Uhh, aren't you a customer now. You don't work there anymore right? Get your old stuff back. It's yours, you paid for it.

Where I work is definitely not relevant. BUT, I'll give you directions....

RIGHT! - If you didn't want people to comment on your STORY, then you should have contained yourself. Otherwise, why tell it....

Might wanna sell it, there's your answer.. Just don't leave the jb weld out where someone might see it.

Take care.

 

Damage done by the shop would be like backing into a pole or something.

Having a rusted bolt break during removal is not the tech's fault. He didnt make it rust and weaken it. That's just normal wear and tear on the vehicle. Generally speaking the tech should be forward with the customer before work starts, and let them know the risks of the procedure (much like a doctor would before surgery)

Now if its a 12mm, and the tech put a 13mm 12pt on it and rounded the head off, that's damage by the shop, but thats a whole different subject then what is being discussed.

 

thread closed