99 F150 wont crank and stuck in 4lo
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
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99 F150 wont crank and stuck in 4lo
I'm new to this forum and I have a tough one for you. I've searched many threads but couldn't find the right answers so here goes.
My 99 f150 4x4, 5.4L had slop in the shifter - fixed that by tightening shifter bolts. A few months later it wouldn't start with the key. Cross the starter solenoid and it starts perfectly. I use this truck primarily on the farm so I lived with the starting problem for a while. Now the truck is stuck in 4lo also. (I know, I know, foot on brake, in neutral, that's not the problem). I replaced the DTR and nothing changed. I've checked fuse after fuse and nothing is amiss. I think I have the DTR adjusted correctly (tranny shifts fine (in low range) and reverse lights come on correctly). I would start thinking maybe the solenoid or key switch, but the 4lo problem brings me back to the DTR. Any suggestions? I've read some really good replies on this forum so I figured I'd give you guys a try. Thanks in advance!
My 99 f150 4x4, 5.4L had slop in the shifter - fixed that by tightening shifter bolts. A few months later it wouldn't start with the key. Cross the starter solenoid and it starts perfectly. I use this truck primarily on the farm so I lived with the starting problem for a while. Now the truck is stuck in 4lo also. (I know, I know, foot on brake, in neutral, that's not the problem). I replaced the DTR and nothing changed. I've checked fuse after fuse and nothing is amiss. I think I have the DTR adjusted correctly (tranny shifts fine (in low range) and reverse lights come on correctly). I would start thinking maybe the solenoid or key switch, but the 4lo problem brings me back to the DTR. Any suggestions? I've read some really good replies on this forum so I figured I'd give you guys a try. Thanks in advance!
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,200
Likes: 39
From: Easton, Pa.
The DTR still controls the start circuit in Neutral and Park.
The stick control has a 3 position switch for other signals.
You either have an out of adjustment DTR or an open in the start circuit wiring.
Since the trans works ok and signals the PCM to alter the shift sked for 4L, I would not say the trans has an issue, only the electrical control circuit.
A fuse from the distribution box to the ignition start position to DTR and back to the start solenoid is the only circuit you have.
Follow it with a voltmeter to prove the DTR is still not passing power to the start solenoid.
Voltmeter or test lamp to ground at the DTR in, then out toward the start solenoid should tell you this when the ignition is in the start position.
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I don't reccomend you do this as a work around but putting a shunt lead between the in and out leads at the DTR for testing should allow cranking in all transmission positions. Or wiring in a manuel switch if you can't get it solved. There is always that moment when safety becomes an issue if you forget about the shunt being there. Doing this, always make it a habbit to shift to Park before cranking.
Why the open ckt is for you to determine.
Not sure how the trans is stuck in 4L. Is it mechanical stuck or electrically stuck?
There is an electric solenoid clutch control in lue of a motor. What is the power situation for this through the seperate switch. It may also be part of the adjustment issue.
The contacts in the DTR and three position switch only have just so much travel between them which makes adjustment critical. The brake pedal switch is also in series with this circuit.
Good luck.
The stick control has a 3 position switch for other signals.
You either have an out of adjustment DTR or an open in the start circuit wiring.
Since the trans works ok and signals the PCM to alter the shift sked for 4L, I would not say the trans has an issue, only the electrical control circuit.
A fuse from the distribution box to the ignition start position to DTR and back to the start solenoid is the only circuit you have.
Follow it with a voltmeter to prove the DTR is still not passing power to the start solenoid.
Voltmeter or test lamp to ground at the DTR in, then out toward the start solenoid should tell you this when the ignition is in the start position.
.
I don't reccomend you do this as a work around but putting a shunt lead between the in and out leads at the DTR for testing should allow cranking in all transmission positions. Or wiring in a manuel switch if you can't get it solved. There is always that moment when safety becomes an issue if you forget about the shunt being there. Doing this, always make it a habbit to shift to Park before cranking.
Why the open ckt is for you to determine.
Not sure how the trans is stuck in 4L. Is it mechanical stuck or electrically stuck?
There is an electric solenoid clutch control in lue of a motor. What is the power situation for this through the seperate switch. It may also be part of the adjustment issue.
The contacts in the DTR and three position switch only have just so much travel between them which makes adjustment critical. The brake pedal switch is also in series with this circuit.
Good luck.