Well my next project is to work on my fuel tank. It is leaking at the area where the filler neck goes into the tank. I want to lower it and check it out so I can see it a little better. I already tried taking out the bed bolts but even soaking with PB Blaster for three days plus adding a little heat I still could not get all of them loose. I even used a air impact gun. No luck. So I was wondering how much slack is there in the fuel lines and stuff to where if I take off the straps how far can I lower the tank without removing any of the lines? I know I will have to try and loosen the filler neck I guess at the truck body.
Any info on this would be very appreciative.

Thanks,
Ron

 

Take out the 3 bolts for the filler neck, and then there is a hose clamp holding the filler neck to the bed near the frame.

The fuel lines going to the front should have enough play in them, as well as the harness for you to drop it down some get above the tank and disconnect them

 

make sure you have as little gas as possible so the tank is easier to maneuver and handle.

you can drop the tank about 4-6 inches so you can reach up to disconnect the fuel lines. the rubber evap hoses were the hardest for me to get disconnected.

 

Thanks guys, As soon as I get some good weather I will give it a try.

 

make sure you have the tool on the right

 

I just got done replacing my tank. Had the bed off to re-do the middle cross members and some other steel work. Kept noticing a "damp" spot" on what would be the back of the tank, also had a lot of rust around where the filler neck meets the tank. Long story short, ended up replacing the tank. I've got to imagine it's a real pain with the bed on. There is very little room to work at the top of the tank and not enough play in the fuel lines and the electrical connections.

 

Still have not got to my tank yet. Between the weather and work I have not had the time. I am thinking about getting Ford to do the recall on the tank straps first and while they have it see if they can get the bed bolts free for me. This way if I can take the bed off so I can also check out some of the other components and rust under there a little easier. Str8t_six, Did you have to purchase that tool or does Autozone or Advance auto lend them out?

 

An easy way to get those EVAP lines free is using a right angle pic and WD40. A small screw driver may work also. But yea, other than that, =PITA. I always pop the rear vent first, - after the hose is removed, lube up the seal between the vent and tank, - one quarter turn counter clockwise and it pops out. I do this in order to siphon the fuel out if needed. Sometimes the lawnmower needs fuel and I'm to damn lazy to run up to the station.

BTW, -My overflow line rusted/ broke in two, quite awhile ago. Then you could purchase new filler and overflow necks on ebay fairly cheap. Should still be able to get them. They both come together, filler and overflow.

 

Those fuel line tools are only like $8 so it's not a big deal.

 

If you can't find the above tool these ones work good too:


There's definitely more slack in all the lines/connections on these trucks than the <96 style's rear tank; that one's a definite PITA.

I'd say the best tank to deal with is that on an 88-98 GM pickup. We had the tank out of the truck and on the floor beside it and it was still hooked up and running the truck!

 

Thanks for the help. Here are my results and I made a how to for changing the tank.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/19...step-step.html

Ron