1997 - 2003 F-150

97 4.6 - Head Gaskets.....what else?

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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 11:33 PM
  #1  
SactoJim's Avatar
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97 4.6 - Head Gaskets.....what else?

Getting ready to do head gaskets on my 97 xcab 4x4. Truck has 135k miles on it and still runs very well even though I've had a bad head gasket for about 3 years. I have access to a lift and plan on lifting the cab up to get as good of access as possible. I also plan on throwing in some PI cams I got my hands on for a few more hp. Didn't want to do PI heads and increase compression ratio. Anyway...getting all my parts together and want to address what I can while I have it apart to hopefully get another 100k trouble free miles out of it. I'm more that capable of doing this but have never worked on these Ford mod motors.

Suggestions on what else to address while I have it this far apart.
  • My initial thoughts:
  • Head gasket kit
  • Timing components (chain, guided, tensioners)
  • lifters
  • 02 sensors
  • Get injectors cleaned
  • Plugs/wires (still on originals)

Anything I'm missing?....thoughts and/or advice appreciated.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 08:36 PM
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davemx's Avatar
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From: new hampshire
seems like you got it all covered you probably already know but just dont forget to put the first cylinder to TDC, i learned that the hard way, good luck though.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 07:17 PM
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Toyz's Avatar
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From: Beaverton Or.
Intake manifold gasket set. Inspect the exhaust studs since they are known to rot out, maybe pick up some new stainless studs and gaskets. Clean the throttle body along with egr ports, IAC and all of those things when it is off. The most complicated part will be the timing assembly on these.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 05:08 AM
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From: SW Wa
I did the same repair last year to my 97 4.6 4x4 SC @ 225K. I didn't go as far as to lift the cab for better access, was able to do everything leaning over the fenders and though the wheel wells with the tires removed. My repair consisted of:
New PI cam pulls off of ebay for 50 bucks for the pair. Completed the conversion with replacement cam gears and 12mm bolts as my original cams had the pressed on gears. Rebuilt the heads with 5 angle valve job. Installed new reusable ARP head stud kit vs the one-time use factory head bolts. As far as the injectors went, again using ebay, found a matched set of rebuilt injectors for 100 bucks. Replaced spark plug wires with Ford Racing 9mm set, Iridium plugs and MSD coil packs from Jegs. My exhaust manifolds were rusted badly and had to easy out a couple of bolts. I replaced the manifolds with a set of Summit shortys that bolted up to the factory pipe, no problem. I remembered to used all stainless bolts including locking header bolts from Summit. I opened up the exhaust by welding in a stainless x-pipe downstream of the retained factory cats and new O2's, removing the factory y-pipe and muffler terminating with 4" stainless resonator tips NASCAR style in front of the rear tire for a true dual system. I had previously opened the air intake with the Gotts modded airbox, replacing the filter with a reusable K&N unit. Now have 242K and runs better than new, no loss of low end torque with noticeable improved mid to top end acceleration. I didn't gain or loose mpg's remains at 17. I'm thinking a tune might be next to dial in the trans and 33's soon to be 35's. Anyway I hope your project goes or has gone as smoothly as mine did.

Jake
 
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 01:05 PM
  #5  
ONELOWF's Avatar
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From: NEVADA
^^^^ Good post and welcome. One thing I wonder about though is using head studs for a basically stock engine. I'm not sure it is worth the cost in time and money as the "head changing kits" from Ford can be had cheaply and they work fine. I used studs for my build and went through the five pre-stretch cycles before the final torque sequence because I needed to do it that way for the stress of boost.
 
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