What it isn't:
Fuel punp is operational, pressure in rail.
Pulled # 1 plug wire inserted spare checked for spark--Negative
All fuses and relays appear to be good, no codes present.
At one point when no start problem started, the Theft light did flash but since that time it does not. The light goes on when the key is in the run position the goes out after a few seconds as I have read it should do.
If it were a continuing problem with PATS wouldn't the fuel pump also be prevented from running?
Would investigating the coil packs be the next step in this trouble shoot?
This no start problem came from no where, the truck was running fine was parked in my driveway and just started to do this.

 

The PATS system only passes a start signal to the PCM through a dedicated bus. The PCM has a word in program that needs this bit present.
If it's not transmitted to the PCM, the igniton is disabled.
It affects no other operation.
Try this next, turn on the ignition to 'run' and let it set for a couple minutes.
If the theif lamp begins to flash, you have a PATS issue of some sort.
The flash code, if present, will offer an indication of the issue if you have the info to decode it.
If you observe a flash code that repeats several times, post it and I can tell you what is being complained about by the system.
Good luck.

 

Thanks for your reply. The theft light does go off after a few seconds and does not come back on or flash, no matter how long the ignition remains in the run position.

 

Just throwing this out there but i chased a ignition problem for a couple of days and it turned out the clutch sensor had came undone from the clutch pedal, a quick screw and 5 mins later i was on the road.

 

Check fuse #30 a 30amp for being open.
It feeds the coils directly and allows a relay to operate that powers the PATS, PCM etc.
There is a plugin diode in series with the relay that could have gone open preventing the relay from powering up.
The fuse becomes hot in run or cranking.
The shift selector switch closes the starter circuit only in Park and Neutral to prevent cranking any other time.
Keep at it, it has to be something in this area you havn't found yet.

 

Thanks for the responses!
The truck is a automatic.
Fuse #30 is good and both diodes in the engine compartment are also good.

 

New developement!
Used my spare smart key and tried again to start truck and of course it didn't start but strangly with this key the theft light flashes like crazy??
It appears that there is theft issue going on but why with one key and not the other?

 

Come to the conclusion that this theft system is more potential trouble than its worth and would like to eliminate it. Some one out there has to know how to override it and or kill it??

 

In retrospect, the system is very well designed to eliminate a drive-away theft and not be defeated by easy means.
As stated, the PCM has a word in program that need the bit from the PATS system to 'enable' starting.
The only way it is eliminated is a program change to be the same as a truck that did not come with the PATS system, as built.
The electronic dash is also involved in this system.
I know it's a hassle for you but solve the issue as this does not happen all that often.
The problems are more with keys etc not working.
Good luck.

 

Thanks again!
Ok, this is what happened,
I had the truck towed to the local Ford dealer today and told them all the facts. They reprogramed my two keys and said that eliminated the theft issue but still no spark. Later in the day they called me back and asked me if I owned a gun! My first thought was that my bill was high and they were going to suggest that I off myself, only to find out that a porcupine had chewed the wires to the crank sensor!
The question I have in advance of meeting with them tomorrow to pick up the truck and settle the bill is wouldn't their computer detect a problem with the crank sensor earily on in their trouble shoot efforts??

 

I don't see the cause for the concern about the crank sensor.
It was found after the PATS issues were solved as a second trouble.
What would your concern be?
The crank sensor is where all reference begins as the motor begins to crank over. If the sensor is open the PCM has no reference for any other operation including ignition.
It sends RPM values and rotation timings for a variety of monitors including misfire on the first 1000 rpm of cranking etc.
It's doubtful the PCM could detect an open from just cranking since it got no signal from that sensor. The PCM doesn't know what's going on without the signal.
There are codes but what conditions allow for detection? They are low output, high output, intermitant and noise.
A tech should know to begin looking at these areas when there is no 'clear' reason for a lack of ignition. Anyone else who does not know how the system works is lost at that point.
The sensor is located right up front behind the A/C compressor at crank shaft level and detects a toothed edge wheel as it rotates..
It's interesting how they know what animal did the damage but makes no real difference.
Important thing is you have it repaired.
Dealers are expensive but there is nearly no one else to solve it for you.
Good luck.