An input would be GREAT!!!

I was driving home last week and my f150 4.2 just stalled and wouldn't start I noticed that my fuel gauge was low so at first I that I had run out if gas. I went grabbed a can and added gas , started but rough idle bearly running and when i tried to clear it out by giving it gas it stalled . Cranked it and finally started up again but same thing. I towed it home and started swapped coil first, no change then checked fuel 40lbs key on then stayed at 40 when started,, still running rough checked and cleaned egr,IAC,MAF and all o2 sensors still no good , don't know what what I should do next??? I also noticed when I changed the fuel filter the next day that the fuel line didn't have pressure after sitting overnight,, not sure if that is something to worry about ??? b/c it gets pressure when key is turned on..

Help daily driver / work truck...

 

Is the Check Engne Light on?
If yes, what codes are stores when read out from the connector under the dash.
You may have an over rich condition, lean no fuel, or ignition issue.
The fuel line won't hold pressure much more than an hour after shutdown.
Some hints to help in the future.
If you run out of gas, just operate the key to on a few times to allow the fuel pump to prime the fuel injection.
If flooded, hold throttle wide open and crank enough to clear out gas from cylinders as this shuts off fuel injection be design to help clear the cylinders.
.
You need to find out if fuel, ignition or some other item is the issue.
At this point you have nothing to go on until you get a lead.
Good luck.

 

Thanks BLUEGRASS!!
I have no codes at all I replaced all spark plugs and wires no change but i did notice that pass side cat was glowing red after 15 min of running I removed the cat and replaced with a straight pipe (just to test ) and no difference so my thought is Im dumping fuel on that side. o2 have that much effect on the motor???

I replaced the engine about 5 years ago b/c of hydrolock and it's been about 50,000 miles ago

 

I had semilar symptoms like that before, and it turned out to be a 15 dollar fuel relay after I spent a whole lot more in a new fuel pump and such. Id check that out if i were you.

 

Your passing raw gas on that side if the cat got hot enough to see it.
You know that seeing it glow in the daylight is a temperature of at least 900° f.
The internal structure melts at those temperatures so plan on replacing it but not before you find the cause of passing raw fuel. You may also need the rear Ox sensor now as well.
Check the fuel regulator for a bad diaphram leaking gas through the hose right into the intake manifold and possibly flooding one or more cylinders.
It is also possible the PCM ignition coil switches are failing to fire the coil for that bank.
If that should be the case, a new PCM has to be installed and programmed and to be sure all issues are cleared before replacing the cat it that is needed.
It's a bit strange not to see codes set for cylinder missfires.
If the cat no longer works to clean the exhaust gases, you will get a code p0420 telling you the efficiency is below limits after a couple drive cycles.
Good luck. Keep looking for the cause of excess gas being burned in the cats before any replacement.

 

I found a relay with the same part number and swapped with no change . I also pulled the vac line to f/p regulator and no gas in it , can it still be bad ??? b/c that was one of my thoughts...

 

The time for guessing is over.
You need to have someone use a scanner and knows how to interpet the live data to see what's going on.
That's what a scanner is for and what a dealer tech would use to look into the program and see the operating data on a real time basis, since you still have no leads.
Luck is the only thing you would have now if you do find anything.
The regulator could still be faulty by allowing to much fuel pressure in the rails. This would drown an elephant if way to high. A pressure check should result in about 40 psi range +/-.
Problem I have with this is no codes.
To much fuel will result in the OX sensors detecting it and shifting the fuel tables lean trying to correct it. This 'will' result in a code 171/174 being set and CEL lamp on the dash.
Missfires will set a codes for the cylinders involved as 301 to 306.
Are you sure the reader/scanner you used can see the codes?
It's like going to the doctor feeling ill and he tells you nothings wrong because he can't see any signs!
Good luck, let us know how it turns out.

 

I have a MAC scanner obd2 and updated.
when i use scanner and moniter everything doesn't read anything b/c I unplugged the battery when i changed the coil, now i don't have any drive time on it and no codes are stored just say pass when i read codes.

 

Here is what you normally would have after powering down the PCM.
All Pids are 'off normal' and need drive cycle time to be tested and reset.
You should show all of them indicated as not test complete by whatever way the scanner shows it by a different color, flashing etc.. There are 6 or 7 Pids
No "trouble codes" would be set because powering down clears memory unless the tests detect a fault during testing.
The code you should see with that grade of scanner is code P1000.
This code clears once all Pid tests are complete and test ok.
The test that seems to take forever and a number of drive cycles is the EVAP system.
Your scanner should display all of the above in information some manner.
If not, borrow another good one and look again.
A 'reader' often does not show all this info.
It seems your Mac scanner may not be working for you and may be causing the hassle of trying to figure out the original trouble and showed no codes..
Good luck.