Hello all,

First of, sorry if this has been asked befoe...I've searched and searched, but havn't found anything directed specifically to this, so if its one of those common 'why the hell is this getting asked again' threads, I did use search

Anyways, from my understanding of the front drive system on the 97-03 f150, you have a open (or LS) diff, AND a engagement system (locking collar) on the right axle. So, what I've thought up, is that the diff isn't really needed in 2wd because the left and right hubs aren't tied together, and the Diff could be welded, without the hop around turns and such, with the separate axles doing that job. Stop me right there if that's wrong

But I plan on installing the posi-lock cable lock system if this whole idea ties together the way I would like it too... So that I can weld my front diff, yet cruise in 2Lo or 2Hi (manual hub/posi lock disengaged) and not have the hop and have both meats spinning separately, yet when i engage the posi, I would have a completely locked front diff (so to speak). This would be the cheapest homebrew locking option I can think up, without ruining these 400$ swampers in 5k miles

 

Maybe there is something I don't get here but if you lock the front in any manner the wheels will sprag on any attempt to make a turn as it does in stock form.
The most you would want is a traction lock clutch set up in the front like the rear has so the front will slip in a turn as the rear does.
Next, in a turn, the outer circle wheel turns at a faster rate than the inner wheel so you need the differencial action if it has a clutch assembly.
In 4H or 4L the above is what makes the wheels 'hobble' trying to play catch up by the wheel sliding/breaking traction on the road surface.
In mud, snow or slick/loose surface the same thing happens but you don't feel it very much in favor an overall increase in traction.
Maybe you should tell us what the 'motive or application' is for wanting to weld up the diff. action, then it may make more sense.

 

Yea welding it up is gonna be about the exact same as putting a spool in there. If you do this I hope you don't mind going strait or taking very very slow turns.

 

I did it the easy way. I went and got a Front diff assembly from a A4WD Expedition. It doesnt have the disengagement future and incorporates a track lock up front...

 

Im thinking you guys don't get what im proposing....the axle dissengagement, the think that essentially splits the axle when in 2wd and is operated by vacuum, the locking collar....if I change it to a manual....and weld the front diff, I can keep the engagement collar unlocked, allowing both wheels to spin seperately, yet with a welded diff....however it would be a different story in 4wd. Essentially the same as having manual hubs.

Oh and yes, I know what a diff does, I know all about the theory behind it, I know all of this, is has LS right now, which is fine if you know how to use it properly, but a locker on one axle is always nice. 3 wheels can get you through most stuff generally. Info on the truck: its a 01 lariat 4x4 offroad package lifted 8" on 37x14 super swamper IROKS.

 

Edit: the truck is used in trails, its a DD, ALOT of mud, and sand.
here's the manual 'hubs' (so to speak) http://www.finishlinewest.com/posi_lock.htm
maybe this will help y'all get what im sayin'.

 

I know what your saying. A friend of mine tried it back in high school and it pretty much tore itself apart, but he also wasn't any good at welding. I think it may have been the rear axle though. It was a ranch jeep and years ago so I dont remember for sure.

Seems like a good idea.

 

really? I thought all the fronts we're open. expy/navi/f150

 

No the A4wd Ex[editions have a track lock up front. To the OP a weld frony diff will cause more problems than its worth especially being your on 37's...

 

Yeah i figured as much. If its a new thing, then ill skip it. Especially considering the 600$ im sinking into 4.88's and the 1500$ in 37"s w/ rims.

LS is pretty damn good anyways if you know how to use it.