im rebuilding my 8.8, new spiders, crosspin, and trac-lock. i forget what stacking order i used, but im worried about the tolerances between the side gears and the pinion gears. the side gears are tight enough that its a royal PITA to get in, but the pinion gears go in easy. easier then everyone says it should be. but then again im turning them in a normal rotation... so what should the clearance be between the pinion gears and side gears?

 

this might help.

 

i dont have any fancy measuring equipment. and frankly i dont know how to use them. but heres a video i just took...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vO4i9Jhm3q0

 

i'll see what my instructor says about that tomorrow. imo, it is obviously loose and has some play, but it might be in spec.

 

i know it has some play, but ive never touched a diff before so i dont know what its supposed to be like.

 

teacher just said it's too much play in it, it would be noisy, probably have to shim it or something. i'll see if i can find the selective part to fix the issue for you.

 

If you don't have the proper measuring equipment, you have no business rebuilding your own diff.

 

i dont know where i would put shims. i have the 2 shims for the pinion gears in there, and i honestly dont think i could go anymore on the side gears.

im 17, with no money, and i need this truck to get me back and fourth to my job/college. so im doing what i have to.

 

take it to a driveline shop, they can button it up for you. if it all comes down to it.

 

well, i live in the sticks of jersey. theres really no shops like that around here. if there were, id probably have a disk brake 9.75 in the rear. i couldnt find anyone to shorten my driveshaft.

 

so, i just remembered the other things in the spider gear kit. i have no idea what these are...

 

Those look like snap rings for the axle. I think they are used for open diffs, you have the "S" clip.

 

Look to me that you don't have enough shims in there. I had to force my side gears in and there was little to no play in the gears at all. If the spiders are that loose I don't think you're going to be impressed with your posi-trac action.

 

http://www.angelfire.com/theforce/5o...5ohtech001.htm

Give this a look-see.

 

Respectfully, your in over your head on this service.
The shim stacks have to be stacked when in place and the caps bolted to torque that result in proper clearence within the high and low limits for 'backlash' AND preload the carrier bearings.
You need a dial indicator, a mount for the dial indicator to allow accurate measurement of backlash.
If nothing else has been changed, the pinion contact area should fall in spec close enough.
The spider gears usually are of little concern unless they are worn then should be replaced.
With the shim stack, once you get the right stack thickness; if you remove one from one side, you must add the same amount on the other side to maintain the bearing load on each side.
The aim of proper shimstack is to preload the carrier bearings.
From this you can see that if you are not familuar with and have tools, there are to many places to go wrong and make a mess of it and have to take it all apart again.
the shims are color coded and a dealer item. You need a micrometer to measure shim thicknesses
Lastly you may have a very difficult time reinstalling the 'S' spring due to the strength of it.
I have developed a tool that make this a no brainer.
It is a rectangle tube about 5"long that the spring just fits into by compressing the spring in a vise just enough to slide in the end half way.
Hold the tool and spring against the opening and drive the spring into place as a start, then finish seating it with hammer taps.
Be carefull it does not spring out and hurt you in the process.
In the future do enough research before taking anything apart that you are unfamiluar with..
Unless you want the experience of this, I would advise you get another rear and bolt it in place for the conditions you have or take the rear out and to a shop.
Good luck.