1997 - 2003 F-150

Anyone know what Autolite is??

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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 10:18 PM
  #16  
BLUE20004X4's Avatar
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From: Windsor, Ont.
Originally Posted by jethat
I've seen a Honeywell rep post both Motorcraft and Autolite plugs are made on the same line the only difference being the paint job they put on the plugs. I've ran them without issue in my 5.4. I think most who have had problems with them are owners of pre PI 5.4 engines.
Autolites came stock in my Mach I. They didnt start up with the Motorcraft brand until later..
Very true, same manufacturer. I know jbrew HATES the Autolites for his 5.4, which is a 98 (pre PI head). Had some bad issue, as did a few others I believe. People on the Ford 460 forums recommend Autolite AR-33's I think for the big blocks which I'll be using in mine next once I burn my Motorcrafts out! I actually just bought NGK TR-6's for when I put the blower on my truck. Autolite's are good OP, if they worked fine for you, go for it.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 11:26 PM
  #17  
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From: USA
Originally Posted by Bansheeman6100
i think im gonna change my plugs when i do my O2 sensors this winter. i dont know when they were last changed and im trying to optimize performance and economy . although i know nothing about the COP, is there anything special to keep in mind?
Use anti seize on the plug threads. Use electrical grease on the COPs. Your local parts store has these in little plastic packs near the register.

Get a set of 3/8" locking socket extensions and a ujoint. The locking extensions will keep you from losing a socket in the head.

When you pull the fuel rail some orings will be left in the rail. Carefully remove them with something that cannot scratch the rail (not a screwdriver). Put the orings back on the injectors before you reinstall the rail.

The COPs just unscrew and come out. They are probably the easier part of the job.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 11:48 PM
  #18  
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From: Austin, Texas
Originally Posted by biggrey
Use anti seize on the plug threads. Use electrical grease on the COPs. Your local parts store has these in little plastic packs near the register.

Get a set of 3/8" locking socket extensions and a ujoint. The locking extensions will keep you from losing a socket in the head.

When you pull the fuel rail some orings will be left in the rail. Carefully remove them with something that cannot scratch the rail (not a screwdriver). Put the orings back on the injectors before you reinstall the rail.

The COPs just unscrew and come out. They are probably the easier part of the job.
thanks! the only thing i've done plugs on before was my old 5.0 F150. this truck has 175k miles on her, and i dont know when, if they've ever been replaced. i dont think it NEEDS to be done, but i also dont think it could hurt
 
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 02:25 AM
  #19  
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glc
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From: Joplin MO
Do *NOT* use antiseize in the 4 thread 4.6 and 5.4 2 valve heads! The recommended Motorcraft plugs are nickel plated, designed for aluminum heads, put them in DRY and torque them to 28 ft/lb.
 
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