1997 - 2003 F-150

Cam Cover/Valve Cover Tightning

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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 01:31 PM
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Cam Cover/Valve Cover Tightning

Awhile back I had a plug go on my 01 5.4L SCREW so I ended up putting a helicoil style fix in the thing. I had to take off the valve cover during the repair, I put it all back together and it leaks. SOB!!. So I wanted to know if there is a certian tightning sequence for the cover and if I need any RTV if I have a new gasket. Also if anyone knows the torque specs on these bolts I would appreciate it.

This site and the feedback you guys give is great, I have saved a load of money from trollin and tinkerin. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 07:08 PM
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Delete.....
 

Last edited by Toyz; Nov 15, 2010 at 07:12 PM.
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 07:11 PM
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The 2 surfaces must be really clean before re-installing. You should have used gasket sealer on the inside of the valve cover, then pressed the gasket back into the groove making sure it seated all the way. At the mating joints, between the timing chain cover and head, there are 2 areas that need a dab of rtv sealant, you should have seen that when you removed it. Then tighten the fasteners in 2 sequences, waiting a few minutes between. Starting in the center and working up and down but outwards towards each end at the same time. 71-106 in-lbs

Let me see if I can find a pic of the 2 areas that require a dab of rtv

You can probably reuse the gasket, unless it is completely squished. But the leaks are probably due to the 2 areas that didn't get sealant or improper tightening sequence. Not necessarily the torque but the sequence is important.

Cant find a pic. But it is up front right where the timing cover meats the head. 2 spots per head
 

Last edited by Toyz; Nov 15, 2010 at 07:15 PM.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 09:57 AM
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I tried to keep a center out approach when I was tightening, I did not follow the same sequence twice so I think that may be where I went wrong. There are two tabs, one on the front side of the truck and one on the back towards the firewall, I believe these are the two spots that need the rtv. I guess I'm just going to have to give it another try.

I probably would have never known it was leaking but the drip seems to find itself on my exhaust manifold. So she smokes like crazy. Every time I go anywhere there is always a good citizen notifying me of the smoke coming from my hood. haha.

I appreciate the feedback.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 11:06 AM
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Lol.

yeah, the second tightening sequence is the most important. Youll notice when you go back the second time around, some of the ones you tightened down have magically loosened up.

Both the areas that need a dab of rtv are up front in the 2 areas the timing cover meat the heads. Here, found some pics of the passenger head on my motor. Inside the red circles are two black areas of the original squished rtv sealant. It was later removed and cleaned so I could put fresh sealant there. But those are the two spots. And that is the front side, right at the timing cover/head joint.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 12:50 PM
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Good luck with that helicoil. The only inserts that are even close to a permanent repair are Timesert.

I would advise you to retorque the rest of your plugs to 28 ft/lb to prevent another blowout.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 06:33 PM
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Yeah, it actually was a Timesert, I couldn't remember the name of the thing.

My truck is on its last leg so I Loc-tited the plugs in....haha, Kidding. How often do you retorque your plugs?
 
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 06:35 PM
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Thanks Toyz for the pic/diagram!!!!!! I remember scraping those two spots of RTV off.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by colvinry
Yeah, it actually was a Timesert, I couldn't remember the name of the thing.

My truck is on its last leg so I Loc-tited the plugs in....haha, Kidding. How often do you retorque your plugs?
if torqued to 28ft/lbs and no anti seize then you shouldn't ever have to check them again. Until they are ready to be changed.
 
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