Ok, so here is my delema. The studs that connect my manifolds to the rest of my exhaust are rusted off. All four of them (two per side) and i want to know what i should do to fix it. Nothing will get done untill this spring at the earliest (unless disaster strikes before then). The local ford dealer wants 500 bucks just to remove the manifolds and they haven't even fixed anything yet. They also said they typically break one mounting stud per side so there is another 80 bucks in parts plus labor, and they still havent fixed anything. I know i also need both upstream O2 sensors replaced, but that isnt the main concern yet.

So i guess my options are:

Pay ford to do it, get it back to stock and go aboout my life,

Make some custom clamps out of 1/4 inch thick steel plates and bolts that will re clamp the system together, save a bunch of money, but have it jerry rigged, (would this even work?)

or go find a competent shop other than ford and have a whole new system put in, long tubes, "high flow" cats and custom straight pipes angled out behind the rear tires and then find some factory looking mud flaps to protect them.

What would you do? i really don't want to spend more than 1000 bucks if i dont have to.

And does anyone have any kind of idea of what prices i would be looking at for a full custom exhaust?

Thanks guys!

 

If it were me I would go aftermarket. You could find a system for less than what it would cost to go back to stock. Plus it is a good excuse to upgrade IMO.

 

I'd go aftermarket as well!!

 

Mine did the same thing, - strange how they do that.

I purchased a new set of LT headers. $300

High flow cats. $160

Removed my old cats and brought them to the salvage yard. Sold them for $200.

So it didn't cost me that much. Gained some nice HP and she sounds much better.

 

Did you do the work yourself? or did you take it to a shop? I don't have access to a welder and i don't like clamp together exhaust systems because from what I've seen you can't keep the pipes straight on them.

Also, did you put 2 or 4 cats back on? any issues with your O2 sensors?

Oh yea, does it make it a lot louder? I have cat back straights that are pretty loud when you get on it, but don't drone when cruising at speed, would this change with headers? Should i find some mufflers too?

 

the manifold studs are almost gone on my truck too.. its actually a bit of a miracle that my y pipe is still on and not leaking.. but when they do finally give and rust out completely, its easy enough to get a set of torches and cut em out.. no need to remove the manifolds from the truck.... and when that happens and i do drop the y pipe im def cutting the stock cats out and going with 2 highflow cats and true duals.. but thats just what id do..

 

Yea, - Don't run straights unless you don't mind all that torque loss and drone. That's one way to turn your truck into a piece IMO lol. You screw up Flow and Velocity when you do that, -your not tuned to run that way. I don't think they sound all that great either. It's just not the way. You need something back there.
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Stock Tune setup : Well, look to Punisher's write up, -it's pretty good -
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ex...ust-guide.html
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I do all my own work, so far.. I purchased a little Flux Core Welder ($89) from Harbor Freight to do this. It's the bottom of the line in welders, but it works and comes in handy.
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Keeping the pipes straight ? Are you running duals by chance, true duels ? If so, you need to decrease pipe diameter (Cat back) or you'll loose. Again, Punisher has proper sizing listed for duals, I believe.
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I have "0" drone. Drone get's old quick and I hate it lol. Set your system up correctly and you'll have performance, economy gains everywhere throughout the rpms. I had to do it right, the truck pulled allot of weight frequently. I didn't want to tune, so I stuck with a single (not duels).
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Yes, it's louder, -when I get on it. Nice low rumble @ idle and normal acceleration.

First start after install (headers), just reconnected the battery-- Idle's a little squirrely.

http://picasaweb.google.com/jbrew393...47495635595234
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I have One cat per side (94306's), - NO CEL . The system needs to be tight and your O2 bungs cannot leak. That's important. Also purchase 1 piece O2's, -No extenders, O2's are sensitive @ the wires/connectors. Factory OEM Bosch has the correct sensors for LT's. They have a 17.5" harness. Signal and Ground are directly connected to the PCM, so use the correct sensors to avoid a potential CEL.

Cats -

 

They make a inexpensive product to fix your problem. Ford does not use a gasket at the connection between the exhaust manifold and the down pipe so all you need to do is reconnect the flange at the manifold to stop the exhaust leak. The product is called the Hush studfix. AP Exhaust Products sell them. There is also a website at studfix.com where you can see and buy them.

 

The fix for this problem can be found at studfix.com

 

Here's the link - http://studfix.com/Home.php

I've never seen this before. From the looks of it, you still have to drill the flange out and replace the studs ? Well that's the biggest problem, since you can't do this unless you use a carbide burr. Even with that, it's a PITA , -if even possible. I couldn't do it, I would have to torch it out and that just wasn't possible while installed.

You might as well go with a "Doorman" replacement manifold, -since their so cheap at the ebay store. And new studs of course.

It is the cheapest route for DIY'er IMO.

 

I think the studfix just hooks around the old stud. i dont know if it will work, because ity has a piece that goes inbetween the two flanges and i dont know how close together the flanges have to be to each other to seal properly. but it does look like a good idea and i may just put these on my xmas list. then if it doesnt work i can still try something else.

 

Where did you buy your headers and cats? Also, will a Flowmaster #17472 dual exhaust kit work with them? It is not true dual, but two tailpipes.