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2000 4.6L spark plug change/COP's ?

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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 10:06 AM
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2000 4.6L spark plug change/COP's ?

Hello all,

The happy 10th birthday of my truck is upon me and this can mean only one thing, time to tune her up!

I am wondering how difficult it is to change the plugs and COP's on this model.

A little background on my truck. 10 years old with about 87 on the odo. It gets driven very little and sits a lot. I have had issues with the COP's going bad in the past and have replaced a few on my own, a pretty simple job once you find out which one it is through a scanner. I imagine a generous coating of PB blaster is in order and to let it sit for a day and really let it soak in for easy plug removal.

I am confident in my abilities to remove the plugs, however my concern is with the plugs themselves. On my particular engine, are the plugs used the ones that break and then require MAJOR engine overhaul to remove them? I thought this was a 5.4 issue and if I were to break a plug I would still be able to simply remove it with no issues, other than not being able to reuse the plug which is being replaced anyway.

I have a decent compliment of tools, are there any specialty tools required, or just a bunch of extensions and swivels?

I plan on getting Motorcraft plugs and whatever COP's Advance has in stock.

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 10:15 AM
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http://rmftc.com/howtos/sparkplugs/sparkplugs.html
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 10:37 AM
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Thanks for the link.

However there are still a few things the link did not answer for me.

Are the plugs used in the 4.6 and 5.4 different in respect to the breakage issue and then requiring major engine work to remove the damaged portion.

I have also found varying opinions on whether to use anti-seize or not. I highly doubt I will own this truck to see another 100k so as far as removing the plugs again, unless there is a breakdown is not a huge concern.

I have all the tools listed on the website so it looks as though this is do-able for me. Just would like to hear some more real-world experiences and tips to make this a 6 pack job and not a weekend long few cases of beer job.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by pgh_medic
Thanks for the link.

However there are still a few things the link did not answer for me.

Are the plugs used in the 4.6 and 5.4 different in respect to the breakage issue and then requiring major engine work to remove the damaged portion.

I have also found varying opinions on whether to use anti-seize or not. I highly doubt I will own this truck to see another 100k so as far as removing the plugs again, unless there is a breakdown is not a huge concern.

I have all the tools listed on the website so it looks as though this is do-able for me. Just would like to hear some more real-world experiences and tips to make this a 6 pack job and not a weekend long few cases of beer job.
The breakage problem applies to 2004-2008 3 Valve 5.4. You will not have that problem. I did not use anti-seize. If you have compressed air, blow out the spark plug wells after you remove cops, or vacuum out with a shop vac. Start with the passenger side (easiest) to develop a routine. You may want to start the plugs with a fuel line over the end to prevent stripping the threads in those aluminum heads. Also may want to remove rubber gasket in spark plug socket when installing new plugs so that socket does not remain on plug whenever you remove extension Torque new plugs to 28 ft lbs.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by rjp
The breakage problem applies to 2004-2008 3 Valve 5.4. You will not have that problem. I did not use anti-seize. If you have compressed air, blow out the spark plug wells after you remove cops, or vacuum out with a shop vac. Start with the passenger side (easiest) to develop a routine. You may want to start the plugs with a fuel line over the end to prevent stripping the threads in those aluminum heads. Also may want to remove rubber gasket in spark plug socket when installing new plugs so that socket does not remain on plug whenever you remove extension Torque new plugs to 28 ft lbs.
correct
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 11:27 AM
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Awesome.

So, other than the PIA it is to access some of the plugs it sounds like a pretty straightforward process.

Looks like I will pick up some PB Blaster and hit them up a few times and really let it soak in before I do them.

My truck runs well and has been a fairly trouble free vehicle, I am very satisfied with my purchase. I am hoping to pick up a couple MPG's I have lost over the years with some new plugs.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 11:43 AM
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Just go back with Motorcraft plugs. These engines are happiest with them.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 12:23 PM
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May also be a good idea to put a dab of di-electric grease in the end of the boot that fits over the plug.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rjp
May also be a good idea to put a dab of di-electric grease in the end of the boot that fits over the plug.
DEF. going to do that.

I think I have fried about 5 COP's over the life of my truck. Everything from washing the engine, to 4 wheeling in water I prolly shouldnt have to driving in hard rain.

I do love my truck and she has been good to me. But IMO this is a major design flaw and they (COP's) should have been weather sealed or protected better from the factory.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 03:54 PM
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definently a six pack job, did my plugs and plug wires in 2 n half to 3 hours havent done mine in a while either and they came right out
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 05:21 PM
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Buy a full set of OEM quality cops on Ebay for about 80 bucks - preferred vendors are Uneek and Global.

You shouldn't need any PB Blaster - your plugs are noted for loosening and blowing out by themself, not sticking.

No antiseize, torque to 28 ft/lb.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 06:37 PM
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This thread is calling out to me ! lol I have 3 cylinders misfiring right now I need to change the plugs and cops. 2 from wheeling and 1 from washing the engine off. My truck is at the ten year mark too.

Any way great thread and good luck!
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 10:26 PM
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I will jump in to help out with the dielectric grease procedure. I did my plugs and COPs last week and jbrew was HUGELY helpful (and if you don't know already...he's kind of a big deal around here). Just search "Spark Plug / COP part #" to find my thread...might have some helpful points that snagged me!

But here is the procedure jbrew recommended to me...i followed it EXACTLY:

BTW- The easiest way to grease up the coil boots. Pull the boots from the spring. With a screwdriver , run a bead of dielectric down the shaft. Insert the screwdriver into the boot and with a circular motion, grease the entire inside of the boot. This will do is focus pulse directly to the plug. Without it, pulse can jump leaving carbon trails inside the boots eventually weakening part, leaving it susceptible to moisture.

Next, test spring to coil blade connection. Pull on it a couple times, make sure it's connected well.

Push boot back onto coil.

Reach inside the boot, pull the spring about 1/2" past the boots end. Use a paperclip or whatnot to hold the spring in this position.

Clean the spring end(plug contact point) w/Lacquer thinner or a grease cutting agent.

Release paperclip so the spring recoils back into the boot.

On the outside of the boot, grease the top seam of the boot. It's a moisture preventative.

Install the coil in a twisting motion once boot has contacted plug.

( NOTE: The spark-plugs porcelain should have a thin coat of grease already applied to, - before the plugs were installed, - so the new boots will mount correctly. New boots tend to stick making mounting difficult when new. So try not to forget that when installing the plugs and it will go easy)

Last step. Grease the void between the plug boot and head best you can. This will keep moisture out of the plug wells in the future and keep all 8 firing healthy.

Again, that was all jbrew...not trying to taking ANY credit for that!

Good luck, and take your time!
 
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