You should only use motorcraft or Bosch 02 sensors. Other brands dont work well.. bosch is the OEM supplier or so they say..

 

Yes i Went in with the Bosch O2 sensor... They tried selling me a universial one and i was like. No ill wait until you get the Bosh in! haha but yes the first Bosh sensor was bad from stock so we will see how the new one does.

 

Might as well try to learn something from this issue.
Comments:
There are two types of codes.
1. Those that are set as a result of an emisssions test failure.
2. Those that are set from an operating parameter failure going out of limits.
.
Example of #1 would be the EGR operational failure that results in a code in the 0400 number series.
A failure for #2 would be an OX sensor failure that results in the PCM doing a substitute shift to a fixed fuel table to keep from disabling the motor because it is not the type failure that should make the vehichle unusable, but will set a code as an alert.
The results of an OX sensor that cannot feed the PCM a good control signal is the fixed table and a rich fuel supply plus lower mileage and some drivability effects.
It is truely strange that no code is set in memory for such drivability issues.
If a mid to high end scanner were used and set to trap the trouble, you would get a lead on it in a hurry.
The systems have been designed since about 1991 to be able to look at all the operating parameters.
Dealer shops have to have this ability, but half the time, the techs are not allowed to work at this level by shop policy or don't have enough expertise to do so.
Using these diagnostic methods requires you to have documentation for what the operating parameters are and be able to recognize them when they are seen.
Some issues that are brought here trying to get help with, require this depth of diagnostics or you roll with the hassles until lady luck come your way.
Good luck.

 

The truck has not broke down on me in 5 days, then yesterday the Wife wanted to run to the store and the truck wouldnt start. So I perked up and grabbed my fuel pressure gauge.

Had 0 Psi at the Fuel Rail. Pretty sure I could hear my Fuel pump kicking on, although Im slightly deaf (all the years of working on jets). Assumed it was my Fuel Pressure Regulator. Removed and repaced the Fuel Pressure regulator. (A fun task with the wrong snap ring pliers)

After a about 2-3 turns on and off with the key pressure went up to about 20 psi.. went ahead and started the truck up went out looked at the gauge and noticed fuel leaking out of gauge fittings. turned the truck off disconected the gauge. And not having any other problems with the truck as of yet. So In conclusion, Im not really sure if i fixed anything since my fuel gauge was leaking a bit. Time will only tell... I'll keep everyone posted.

 

On Friday my Truck acted up again, Had No pressure at my fuel rail. Apparently my fuel pump was intermittent after it got warm or hot it would stop working.. Thats a new one on me. Always thought when fuel pumps went out they just died.

About 4 years ago I replaced the pump with one from Auto Zone because I had some Idle problems(IAC) (Pre F150online.com days) Needless to say it didnt fix anything so I just saved the original pump.. And reinstalled it a couple days ago.. Everything is running fine and the pump sounds much better. So being the old pump it may last 3 months or 3 years who knows but it saved me from spending another 160 bucks.