Lifted my truck this weekend, 01 Screw
Lifted my truck this weekend, 01 Screw
I finally got all of my parts in and found a set of tires so I knocked the lift out Saturday morning. Spindles and springs in front (thanks Brad), blocks in back. I was going to do the body lift too but I like the height of it the way it is, I think any bigger and 35's would have to be replaced with 38's. It rides like a little red wagon right now, these springs are pretty firm, plus I'm on stock shocks that are bottomed out in the rear, I'll address that shortly. Here are the pics.
Before

Waiting for my tire buddy to return with my new shoes on

After

I was unsure how the Arizona Beige would look lifted on stock wheels but I'm happy with the outcome.
Before

Waiting for my tire buddy to return with my new shoes on

After

I was unsure how the Arizona Beige would look lifted on stock wheels but I'm happy with the outcome.
Thanks all. I cut the valance up front to keep it from rubbing, but it still does a little under hard breaking so I'm going to cut it some more. I don't know what gears are in it now, I was going to check but haven't cared that much yet, I will likely go with 4:56's but it'll be a bit. I'm a little irritated because I just took it to the alignment shop and the guy (friend of a friend, that's why I'm irritated) told me I need new upper and lower ball joints, new control arms and a caster camber kit for the low price of $880. Then he told me that the shop that did the lift should have told me this. I told him to pull the truck back out because I just checked the ball joints Saturday and they were fine, and he said "You did this lift? You need a job". Almost every time I use a mechanic I am reminded of why I don't use mechanics. What a douche-bag.
Anyway, that's my rant, thanks for the compliments guys!
Anyway, that's my rant, thanks for the compliments guys!
Last edited by slow96z; Jul 19, 2010 at 01:56 PM.
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Lift looks great man. About those step bars. It appears that the rear of the step hangs lower than the front. Is that by design or can they be adjusted? I was looking at a set on ebay that appears similar to those, but wasn't sure how they would look on the truck. I think I like them.
Thanks all. I cut the valance up front to keep it from rubbing, but it still does a little under hard breaking so I'm going to cut it some more. I don't know what gears are in it now, I was going to check but haven't cared that much yet, I will likely go with 4:56's but it'll be a bit. I'm a little irritated because I just took it to the alignment shop and the guy (friend of a friend, that's why I'm irritated) told me I need new upper and lower ball joints, new control arms and a caster camber kit for the low price of $880. Then he told me that the shop that did the lift should have told me this. I told him to pull the truck back out because I just checked the ball joints Saturday and they were fine, and he said "You did this lift? You need a job". Almost every time I use a mechanic I am reminded of why I don't use mechanics. What a douche-bag.
Anyway, that's my rant, thanks for the compliments guys!
Anyway, that's my rant, thanks for the compliments guys!
I'm not sure about the uppers since my kit has 1" upper uniballs instead of balljoints, but I think it's in the neighborhood of $90-100 for a Moog upper arm with a replaceable balljoint. Of course, it'd be cheaper to go with store brand and such.
Moog alignment cam bolt kit was like $25 per box (need two boxes total) and at the least you're gonna need that. Otherwise, it's gonna be nearly impossible to precisely align the upper arms without it. One shop I went to refused to align it without the bolts, and the other shop said they'd charge for 3 hours labor on top of the alignment charge since they'd pretty much be wild-butt guessing the position of the upper arm and it'd be nearly impossible to move it in minute increments.
How many miles are on the truck? My factory balljoints were toast at 96,000 when I put my lift on. New Moog Problem Solver lower balljoints were like $45 each and since I already had everything apart anyway, it took like an extra 15 minutes per side to pop out the old ball joint and put the new one in.
I'm not sure about the uppers since my kit has 1" upper uniballs instead of balljoints, but I think it's in the neighborhood of $90-100 for a Moog upper arm with a replaceable balljoint. Of course, it'd be cheaper to go with store brand and such.
Moog alignment cam bolt kit was like $25 per box (need two boxes total) and at the least you're gonna need that. Otherwise, it's gonna be nearly impossible to precisely align the upper arms without it. One shop I went to refused to align it without the bolts, and the other shop said they'd charge for 3 hours labor on top of the alignment charge since they'd pretty much be wild-butt guessing the position of the upper arm and it'd be nearly impossible to move it in minute increments.
I'm not sure about the uppers since my kit has 1" upper uniballs instead of balljoints, but I think it's in the neighborhood of $90-100 for a Moog upper arm with a replaceable balljoint. Of course, it'd be cheaper to go with store brand and such.
Moog alignment cam bolt kit was like $25 per box (need two boxes total) and at the least you're gonna need that. Otherwise, it's gonna be nearly impossible to precisely align the upper arms without it. One shop I went to refused to align it without the bolts, and the other shop said they'd charge for 3 hours labor on top of the alignment charge since they'd pretty much be wild-butt guessing the position of the upper arm and it'd be nearly impossible to move it in minute increments.
Lift looks great man. About those step bars. It appears that the rear of the step hangs lower than the front. Is that by design or can they be adjusted? I was looking at a set on ebay that appears similar to those, but wasn't sure how they would look on the truck. I think I like them.







