'98 F-150 4WD, 5.4L
Problem up front. I got home and had a very hot left-front wheel area.
Removed the wheel. Everything seems to turn OK.
Removed brake pads - they're good. Rotor looks good - no signs of overheating.
Checked 4-High & 4-Low. No apparent problems there.
The only thing I can figure is that I may have some cooked wheel bearings. Can't replace just the bearings so I was about to replace hubs. I figured I'd do both just to be on the safe side (130k miles on them).
I thought the VIN would tell whether this rig has 2-wheel or 4-wheel ABS. WRONG.
Ford dealer gave me the ford part number for the hubs (XL3Z1104BC). When I shop for those hubs, they are 2-wheel ABS hubs but my rig has the ABS lines going to the fronts, too (which would mean it's 4-wheel ABS, right?).
This is a Canadian truck ("MFD. BY FORD MOTOR CO. OF CANADA, LTD.")
Any suggestions on which hubs I should try? (and any tips or tricks on doing it? - I've never done this job before)
Thanx,
Fajita

 

I replaced the hubs on my old 1997 4x4 when the bearings started making noise on one, it was a pretty straightforward replacement once I got the right socket. Not sure about your year but for my truck I needed a huge metric sized socket to get the hub off, I had to go to three or four places to even find it. Can't remember off hand the exact size but it was massive and weird having a metric one on there.

 

There should be a plug/wire lead on the hub if it is four wheel ABS. That is how you tell. As far as the socket goes, I went to Advance Auto and used their axle nut set (Loaner-Tool program). Saw no sense in buying a socket I will probably never use again.

Good luck.


-Matt

 

I had to replace my left front hub about 2 months ago. 2002 4wd, 4-abs. Cost 240.00 at Napa for the hub... the dealer wanted over 400.00 and would have to order. If the hub is bad, you should get movement in/out, with the wheel on. Mine moved a good 2 inches

Take wheel off... take caliper and bracket off... remove rotor. 36mm socket to get cv axle nut off, then 3 bolts on the back of the spindle to remove... plus disconnecting the ABS connector.

Not too hard .. I had a good breaker bar on hand which helped alot.

 

A new "wrinkle"...
I was going to order the hubs on-line (approx. $87 each - free shipping and replacement looks like a pretty straight-forward job - and a neighbor has the 36mm socket I would need for the axle-nut) but I figured that first I should take advantage of some local "free diagnosis" offers (Tiny's Tires and the local Ford dealer). They both drove the truck and then tore down both front ends - looking for a problem. The driver's side is still getting very hot but both shops found no problems at all with the hubs, bearings, calipers, rotors or pads. No "slop" in the hubs, pads are good, rotors are straight and "un-scorched" (and the brakes work fine).
I may have to just drive it until something "lets go" or seizes-up (yecch).
One of the mechanics at Tiny's theorized that with 13-year old brake lines, maybe one of them has gotten brittle and a "flap" might have formed on the inside of the line- which momentarily caused the pad to have grabbed the rotor and hold on - long enough to get hot but not long enough to scorch the rotor.
Sounds like a long-shot but I might just replace both of those lines (just in case).
I really appreciate all the input I've received on this problem - Thanx guys!
- fajitasteve

 

well, to be honest if they said that after one of those "free diagnosis" looks then I'd tend to believe them as they usually try and advise you to do all sorts of expensive work otherwise.

 

Agreed!
I might be a little skeptical if they had come up with ways to spend more money on the truck.......but when they can't come up with something to "fix", I do tend to believe them (and I've done business with both outfits in the past and they've treated me pretty fairly (yeah - even the ford dealer)).

Any thoughts on replacing the brake lines (myself) just to be on the safe side?

The pickup is our "utility" and "backup" vehicle. I normally drive my '07 Mitsubishi Spyder ("topless" whenever possible in the Seattle area) and my wife usually drives her '08 Altima. I've been wanting to take the Spyder in to take care of "rattles & squeaks" - a free service at the dealer - but now I'm reluctant to get too far from home in the pickup for fear of something stranding me in the middle of nowhere. That's why I'm considering new front brake lines.

Thanx,
- fajita

 

Might want to have them do a "flush" on the brake system. They power bleed the entire system until the fluid is clean.

Contaminated fluid can also cause your symptoms.

 

/\ x2.... but I would also get new (or remanned) calipers just-in-case. Brakes are something I don't skimp on or take chances, ya know

BTW...$87.00 is awful low for hubs when Napa here wanted $240 and the dealer wanted 400.00 + ... are you sure they were all wheel ABS ?

 

Well........can we ever be sure about what we see on the web?
However, I've done business with autopartswarehouse in the past and the only trouble I've ever had with them was parts being on backorder (and that was only one time for me). Take a look at:
autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Ford/F-150/Dorman/Wheel_Hub/1998/XLT/8_Cyl_5-dot-4L/W0133-1703060.html?loc=Front&tlc=Brakes%2C+Suspension+%2 6+Steering.
That is the hub I (may or may not) need - including 4x ABS. And shipping is free!
I should also note: While I really like my pickup, it only gets 30-100 miles a month on it - the rest of the time it's under a carport. Most of the time we're in the Spyder or Altima. The truck (with it's V-8) only gets used when it is actually needed. If it got daily use, I'd probably go with a little higher quality hubs.
And it got new pads and calipers were checked and rebuilt in December.
I'm probably going to replace the brake lines and go with the power flush.
Thanx,
- fajita

 

Sure LOOKS right and a fine price. I could've done both fronts for less than the price of one.... If I hadn't needed it fixed ASAP .. good find